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Thread: Tire size

  1. #11
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    What's your pinion angle set too.

    Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
    97 firehawk m6 with a forged long rod 355 stock heads and intake soon to be upgraded to LE 21* tfs heads and a big ass cam , rpm built level 5 t56 trans s60 with 4.30 gears umi suspension walbro pump and hot wire kit and a spinning best 12.36 @ 114 crap 60 foot.

  2. #12
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    I didn't see LCA relo brackets on your list. I found them to totally cure wheel hop. And that's running both drag radials on the street and full slicks on the track. Stock ride height, Spohn brackets, LCA in the lowest hole. Steve Spohn also set up a 97 SS convertible with the same brackets/same geometry, and it was a low 8-second/near 170MPH car.

    I ran the 28" Hoosier QTP's in the signature photo, and I had to move the rear axle back about 1/4" so they didn't hit the sheet metal body at the front of the wheel openings, when the tires grew at ~130MPH. You should not experieince that level of tire growth with radials. My rear inner fenders had already been hammerd fior 315/35-17 BFG DR's on 11" wide ZR1/GS wheels.

    My Pro-Stars are 10" wide, 7.5" BS, and that puts the outer edge of the tire right under the edge of the fender (that's a 28.1" ET Drag 28x10.5-15W in the photo). That's with a stock width rear axle. If you are using a narrowed rear axle (e.g. - 3rd Gen dimensions) you would use the smaller backspace.
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  3. #13
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    set the front shocks to full loose on the extension, and halfway on compression , rear close to full stiff on compression, extension halfway.. on a radial car you NEED to have good weight transfer to the rear tire... play with the spring height up front. lca 1 hole from the bottom hole, you don't want to much antisquat.

    you don't want the car to squat at all, make sure pinion angle is good , and the suspension front to back is free and not binding anywear. tire pressure looks good. this is a stick car? if so might want to entertain thoughts of getting some et drags or et street bias plies, radials will work but you will have to have the suspension absolutely perfect and the radials will not recover like a bias ply will.

    Let us know how it goes. btw what's the details on the whole car?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dawdaw View Post
    set the front shocks to full loose on the extension, and halfway on compression , rear close to full stiff on compression, extension halfway.. on a radial car you NEED to have good weight transfer to the rear tire... play with the spring height up front. lca 1 hole from the bottom hole, you don't want to much antisquat.

    you don't want the car to squat at all, make sure pinion angle is good , and the suspension front to back is free and not binding anywear. tire pressure looks good. this is a stick car? if so might want to entertain thoughts of getting some et drags or et street bias plies, radials will work but you will have to have the suspension absolutely perfect and the radials will not recover like a bias ply will.

    Let us know how it goes. btw what's the details on the whole car?
    ok guys my 9" has 4 different holes mine is all the way to the top atm rear is centered in wheel well, I do not have adjustable front anything its all stock, yes car is 6 spd, pinion angle is not perfect but when im on the street and I romp on it in first and slam second I spin like crazy I leave two long ass black marks on the ground ask @Blackbird96WS6 car is 97 z28 383 forged scat crank and forged pistons rods are stock, cam is an earson custom cam is a 230-238 108LSA 548 lift, 58mm tb, ported intake including intake runners, #42 lb injectors, trickflow 195 heads,1.5 rr, k&n cai, msd opti, pacesetter longtubes, qtp electric cutouts, 95 t56 spec 3+clutch, umi trans crossmember, umi on car adjustable TA, umi 3 pt weld in sfc's, moog constant rate springs, vicking double adjustable shocks, umi on car adjustable panhard bar, spohn performance non adjustable lca's, b&m short throw shifter. @Injuneer I like those tires @dawdaw if u need any more info just ask im already looking at some streetlight wheels and tires full slick

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    Man ya need that pinion angle around -2 I had bad wheel hop until i figured out my pinion angle, on the street it was fine but at the track know dice nothing but wheel hop no matter what rpm I left at.

    Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
    97 firehawk m6 with a forged long rod 355 stock heads and intake soon to be upgraded to LE 21* tfs heads and a big ass cam , rpm built level 5 t56 trans s60 with 4.30 gears umi suspension walbro pump and hot wire kit and a spinning best 12.36 @ 114 crap 60 foot.

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  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 97firehawk View Post
    Man ya need that pinion angle around -2 I had bad wheel hop until i figured out my pinion angle, on the street it was fine but at the track know dice nothing but wheel hop no matter what rpm I left at.

    Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
    I need someone to come adjust it for me pllllzzzzz



    SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS

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    As I said before on the shock settings and drop the lca down 2 holes

    You might need to run a slick

  9. #18
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    Pinion angle isn't hard. Get a magnetic or electronic angle.finder and go to Midwest chassis's website and go to the how to section it has a pinion angle article that I found most easy to understand.

    Your shock settings were most screwed.up, you will notice a huge difference if you adjust them how.I told you to in a previous post. It still might not hook but those shock settings will get you 90% there, you might want to get.some weight out of the front of the car as well, that will help transfer weight to the rears much better.

    The bast bang for the Buck weight is front tubular bumper support from mwc or burkhart, mwc is half the price though and very nice. What gear ratio and size et radials are you running?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dawdaw View Post
    Pinion angle isn't hard. Get a magnetic or electronic angle.finder and go to Midwest chassis's website and go to the how to section it has a pinion angle article that I found most easy to understand.

    Your shock settings were most screwed.up, you will notice a huge difference if you adjust them how.I told you to in a previous post. It still might not hook but those shock settings will get you 90% there, you might want to get.some weight out of the front of the car as well, that will help transfer weight to the rears much better.

    The bast bang for the Buck weight is front tubular bumper support from mwc or burkhart, mwc is half the price though and very nice. What gear ratio and size et radials are you running?
    But I do not have aftermarket front anything it's all stock susp. And I have 3:89 gears with mt et streets 275/40/17


    SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawdaw View Post
    As I said before on the shock settings and drop the lca down 2 holes

    You might need to run a slick
    I will drop two holes after I change fuel pump


    SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS

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