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  1. #11
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    That's a tough one. Personally I'd do the oil pan. There are ways to tap the pan w/ out having shrapnel in the pan.
    93 SRZ

    02 MY Z06, LG pro LT headers, catted X-pipe, Borla stingers, CC 224/228, CC918's, CAI, CCW's just your basic C5Z

  2. #12
    The FABRICATOR!


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    What about using the oil drain plug hole as the return port?
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
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  3. #13
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    how about the oil level senser hole i have myn plugged off .
    97 firehawk m6 with a forged long rod 355 stock heads and intake soon to be upgraded to LE 21* tfs heads and a big ass cam , rpm built level 5 t56 trans s60 with 4.30 gears umi suspension walbro pump and hot wire kit and a spinning best 12.36 @ 114 crap 60 foot.

  4. #14
    Long Live the Opti


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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird_1995 View Post
    What about using the oil drain plug hole as the return port?
    Quote Originally Posted by 97firehawk View Post
    how about the oil level senser hole i have myn plugged off .
    Problem with either of these is that you'd be below the oil line, and thus oil would creep into the line, back up against what you're trying to push in, etc.

    Silas, I've though about doing the punch job on the pan, but if I go that route I'm dropping it and doing it right with a two sided bulkhead fitting. The one spot I'm considering that might be a good on is the top of the sump considering it's a Milodon pan. But......again, getting the pan out without dropping the K is about impossible with the 1/4" clearance to the K-Member. I think the manifold is going to be the best bet, and it's not a TON of oil coming back through, but in the valve cover with the single drainback port at the end of each head, it's too much for that.

  5. #15
    The FABRICATOR!


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    Where are you thinking about putting it? In the back where a distributor would go would be a good spot I think. The closer it is to a block drain the better. How hot do you think the return oil is?
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
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  6. #16
    The FABRICATOR!


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    Going back through the dipstick tube would probably be ghetto, huh?
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
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  7. #17
    Long Live the Opti


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    It'll be warm to hot oil depending on how hard I'm pushing the car, and where the distributor would be is exactly where I was thinking of.

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  8. #18
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    my 2 cents. do it the right way. remove the pan and have a fitting welded in it. do not use a bulk head fitting. that's a giant mess waiting to happen. also the turbo drain needs to be lower the than the turbo or oil will back up into the cartridge and may cause seal problems.
    http://ltxtech.com/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=3572&dateline=1317253  626

  9. #19
    Long Live the Opti


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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG CAT View Post
    my 2 cents. do it the right way. remove the pan and have a fitting welded in it. do not use a bulk head fitting. that's a giant mess waiting to happen. also the turbo drain needs to be lower the than the turbo or oil will back up into the cartridge and may cause seal problems.
    Haven't mentioned it but I'm running a turbowerx EXA scavenge pump to pull oil off the turbo and send it back.

  10. #20
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    i would do it in the pan. i have two 12an fittings welded to mine right above the oil line and i never had a issue. imo a oil line in the intake will look getto and more things to go bad ( rear intake seal ) then if you do this you can sell the pump.

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