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  1. #1

    Default What else to check before jumping into opti?

    I have a bone stock (minus flowmaster) 1995 z28 I bought the car about 6-8 months ago and love it.
    I drove the car last year up until november then I parked the car (indoor storage, car has never seen winter). Intermittently I will get a check engine light, only when warm, ussually happens after a longer trip (5miles plus) of running faster than 45mph then when I slow down the light will come on, the fans come on like they are supposed to but because its a 95 I cant pull the code with a paperclip or my code reader and as soon as the car gets turned off the light goes off and does not come on again on start up. I have done some research and decided its a vacuum leak in the vapor system or the air pump check valves.... I got the car back out about 2 weeks ago and I have had it out about 200 miles. I drove it to work on Friday started and ran good. on the way home the light came on in the normal spot (its come on maybe 5 times in the 1500miles i have had the car and when it comes on on the way home from work its always at the same intersection.

    This all leads up to the actual problem. I went out to the car on Sunday (car was not driven since friday) and found the car will not start. I have never had this problem before. I did some research and ran some tests, it looks like I have to replace the opti but I want to make sure I didnt miss anything before I tear the front end apart to do the opti.

    I took the ICM off and had it tested at Autozone. they ran it twice and it passed both times.
    I have good spark leaving the coil (checked with timing light and by holding spare coil wire close to ground)
    When I took the cap off the Schroeder valve 20 hours after last cranking I still had pressure (sprayed me)
    I have somewhere between 44-47 psi at Schroeder valve, does not drop during cranking (tested using MATCO fuel pressure tester)
    I have 12volts to both injector fuses, and injectors while key in "run" position.
    I tested the ICM wiring and the Opti wiring according to this website- http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
    everything tested good. correct voltage at all location and good ground where needed. (tested with middle-of-the-line digital multimeter)
    heres where it gets odd, when I test for spark using a timing light at plug wire (tried 3 different plug wires all on drivers side of opti) I get VERY intermittent spark, Aprox 1 flash per 10 sec (sometimes none)
    car had fist sized oil spot on floor after 4 month storage and I now notice the crank is throwing the oil onto the opti. (again not alot)


    so I know everyone is going to say go pic up an opti and get it done but I just want to make sure theres nothing else to rule out first... thanks in advanced

    Peter

  2. #2
    10 Second N/A Club


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    Name
    Josh
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    96 Z28
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    Holden, MO (KC)
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    Default

    The only other thing I could suggest to check is the opti harness. Check where it plugs into the opti for corrosion and where it plugs into the engine harness.
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 96LT1355Z28 View Post
    The only other thing I could suggest to check is the opti harness. Check where it plugs into the opti for corrosion and where it plugs into the engine harness.
    thanks for the response, I had the plug apart by the pass side fuel rail, did some tests there. tomorrow ill unplug the other side and inspect the wires for damage. Ill give it a try and post up what I find out.

  4. #4

    Default

    I got the car up and running tonight! running better than ever actually.... the problem was NOT the optispark. 96LT1355Z28 I did what you suggested, unplugging the opti harness, inspecting it ect. I saw no moisture but I did notice the wires were flared up and the casings were weak where the wire went into the plug so I cleaned the gunk off and put dielectric grease on both side of the plug and on the plug closer to the fuel rail. then for some reason unknown to me I decided to pull the coil wire off and look at it. the end that plugs into the coil was just caked with green and white goobers so I cleaned them off and packed the connector with more grease... checked the coil it was all goobered too so I cleaned that off with some scotch brite... put it back together and it REALLY tried to start so I pulled the wire off again and when I tried to scrape the contact again the wire literally fell apart. so I when to the parts store grabbed a wire set, threw it in, and BAM! houston we have a running LT1. so lesson learned, TRIPLE check everything! thanks for the help 96LT1355Z28 you made me double check the coil wire and saved me a TON of money. hope this posting helps someone else too.

  5. #5
    10 Second N/A Club


    Status
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    Name
    Josh
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    96 Z28
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    Holden, MO (KC)
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    Default

    Nice glad you got it figured out, the simple fix never works out for me!
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

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