FI Build Idea

[blackbirdws6]

as titled this is an IDEA thread, so far i only have picked up a few parts but most is still in the planing stages, and as for all those small detail items like you are asking about, well thats kinda why i made this thread so i can get answers to these questions. i have no shame in saying that i am new to FI, and i know a hole lot more hast to go in to a FI build then a N/A build. and was hoping to get usefull info here from all the people that are running FI, not just a thread bickering how the D1 is great and the P1 sucks.

I understand the purpose of the thread and only offered my brief recommendation on the head unit. The other questions are important as this needs to play into your overall budget. You can easily spend $1000 on the ancillary BS things that you will certainly need. With that said, here are my ideas/recommendations to add to your thread.

- Be sure to go with a SDCE pulley setup or at least get a 12-rib race kit from Procharger. I am running the 12-rib with no issues but others have not been so lucky. Pulley alignment is crucial to the belt surviving and working properly (ex/ thrown belts and/or belt slipping).

- I would recommend an upgraded damper (mine is from ATI) with the big block crank hub for the LT1. You will need to get your timing cover machined with a new seal in order to accommodate the thicker hub. The purpose is to reduce the stress on the crank snout since you will have a spacer and pulley attached to the front of the damper. If you go away from the stock damper, then the included procharger spacer will need to be machined so the holes line up accordingly. You may also need to have material removed from the spacer as well to make sure the blower and crank pulley align perfectly. Procharger does not make a spacer for use with the ATI damper.....no idea why but they probably just don't want to put in any time to make one. Pretty annoying because they offer one for LS cars.

- I am using a F1A blower and had to grind the corner of the block to clearance the blower. I'm not sure how the clearance is with a P1 to tell you if this will need to be done but just putting the info out there.

- For the EFI connection setup, I was able to use a double roller timing chain. The cloyes 3145 worked just fine without issue.

Just a few thoughts based on my experience and others here can certainly chime in with their info.

[CamaroZGuy]

If this is an idea thread, I'll throw one out:









TURBO

LOL! i already have the blower......

sorry if i came across like an ass in my last posts, no offense was meant to any one, but its been a long past few days and just seeing the same thing over and over again annoyed me...

[popo8]

..... i should be around a 9.2:1 CR. as for RWHP i would LOVE to see close to 600, but i know that going with the P1 it will be hard to to while keeping it streetable. and as for y i want to go boosted...

I have 385ci..... not as much name brand into the parts (I went Eagle, etc) however I will tell you your goals are def attainable...

Only 1 person on this site knows my numbers, but I will tell you that even with my stock heads, the P1, can get you close..... oh yeah, Im 10:1cr....

[CamaroZGuy]

I have 385ci..... not as much name brand into the parts (I went Eagle, etc) however I will tell you your goals are def attainable...

Only 1 person on this site knows my numbers, but I will tell you that even with my stock heads, the P1, can get you close..... oh yeah, Im 10:1cr....

yes, i new that you where rinning a P1 and i have tryed serching forms and watching dyno vids of your car to try and figure out your magical numbers! lol

[popo8]

yes, i new that you where rinning a P1 and i have tryed serching forms and watching dyno vids of your car to try and figure out your magical numbers! lol

lol, I think the only vids posted were form the first motor.. the PARISH 383 (junk) and that made like 430ish....

[CamaroZGuy]

I understand the purpose of the thread and only offered my brief recommendation on the head unit. The other questions are important as this needs to play into your overall budget. You can easily spend $1000 on the ancillary BS things that you will certainly need. With that said, here are my ideas/recommendations to add to your thread.

- Be sure to go with a SDCE pulley setup or at least get a 12-rib race kit from Procharger. I am running the 12-rib with no issues but others have not been so lucky. Pulley alignment is crucial to the belt surviving and working properly (ex/ thrown belts and/or belt slipping).

- I would recommend an upgraded damper (mine is from ATI) with the big block crank hub for the LT1. You will need to get your timing cover machined with a new seal in order to accommodate the thicker hub. The purpose is to reduce the stress on the crank snout since you will have a spacer and pulley attached to the front of the damper. If you go away from the stock damper, then the included procharger spacer will need to be machined so the holes line up accordingly. You may also need to have material removed from the spacer as well to make sure the blower and crank pulley align perfectly. Procharger does not make a spacer for use with the ATI damper.....no idea why but they probably just don't want to put in any time to make one. Pretty annoying because they offer one for LS cars.

- I am using a F1A blower and had to grind the corner of the block to clearance the blower. I'm not sure how the clearance is with a P1 to tell you if this will need to be done but just putting the info out there.

- For the EFI connection setup, I was able to use a double roller timing chain. The cloyes 3145 worked just fine without issue.

Just a few thoughts based on my experience and others here can certainly chime in with their info.

as for the 12 rib pully, it is some thing i have thought about, i do plan on running an ATI damper.

but as you said in a previous post, could you give some ideas about a crankcase evac set up? i have never built motors to the level that some thing to that level has been needed.

[CamaroZGuy]

well, the plan for who will be building my short block is now in the air. so far its looking like it will now be Speed inc, since they are the only ones actually replying to emails. i have sent 4-5 emails to Clayton racing in the past 2 months and have yet to see a reply. where Speed Inc was replying back with in minutes of me sending the email. though going this route may be a little more expensive, i know i will get quality work in a reasonable amount of time. though i am also waiting to hear back from Nelson Racing Engines also.

[QC97Z]

as for the 12 rib pully, it is some thing i have thought about, i do plan on running an ATI damper.

but as you said in a previous post, could you give some ideas about a crankcase evac set up? i have never built motors to the level that some thing to that level has been needed.

When BlackBirdWS6 mentioned using the ATI Damper, he meant a BBC damper. It is a much larger, more robust setup, but requires machining of the timing cover to fit. We both have the information for the correct seal with part number for this.

A crankcase evacuation setup can be tricky on FI. On N/A setups, there are 2 lines going to a catch can. One line goes to your PCV valve, the other to your intake manifold. When you're in vacuum (which is all the time, unless you're WOT, which is zero vacuum), the intake manifold will literally suck the pressure out of the crankcase through the PCV, and the oil will get caught in the catch can.

On FI, you have 2 conditions: vacuum and boost. The setup BlackBird and I both have is an RX catch can setup, offered by Lashway Motorsports on LS1Tech. Beware though, I had to deal with Erik Bentley (Lashway guy) a few times to get things right on the quality end of things.
The can we have has 3 ports. The center port goes to the PCV valve. The two outside ports go to the intake manifold and to the inlet (vacuum) side of the supercharger. When in vacuum, the intake manifold is evacuating the crankcase. The inlet side of the supercharger isn't in vacuum, because the bypass valve is open, letting all the charged air into the atmosphere. When in boost (past zero vacuum), the line from the intake manifold will be pressurized toward the can, but an internal check valve in the can stops this from happening. Your bypass valve will be closed at zero vacuum and in boost, letting the charged air get to the throttle body. The line going to the inlet of the supercharger will be in vacuum, evacuating the crankcase under boost.

The thing that we both learned was that YOU MUST HAVE A DEDICATED LINE GOING ONLY FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD STRAIGHT TO THE CAN. You can't tap into the line (put in a vacuum tee) because those devices attached will not have any vacuum (the catch can system is just circulating air around, it's technically not sealed). Luckily I only had my boost gauge teed to the line in the first place, but if I had methanol injection, a hobbs switch for a second fuel pump, a trigger for nitrous, or any other switch or system that needs a vacuum reference, that could have been the end of my motor. Good thing I found that out before Brian got his car up and running on the meth

The Lashway can is decent, but it must be mounted upright. The check valves are a ball-type, so they must be seated with the can right side up in order for them to work.

If you want to go this route, but can't get ahold of Lashway, let myself or BlackBirdWS6 know. I have a design that can use a regular 2-port catch can, but will have the same functionality as the 3-port. It will use diaphragm-type check valves, so you could mount the can anywhere you want, at any rotation. Hell, you could mount it upside down if you wanted to.

[CamaroZGuy]

ok, i dont know if my mind has just been fried from being in the desert, but my brain is not comprehending the set up from the words.....would you be able to get pics of how every thing is run?

[QC97Z]

ok, i dont know if my mind has just been fried from being in the desert, but my brain is not comprehending the set up from the words.....would you be able to get pics of how every thing is run?

Lol, I can get some pics sometime soon. It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is.
You're hooking up 2 vacuum sources and the PCV to the can, and with dedicated lines only.