how would you build a 355

**redtransam95** · 05-13-2011, 07:40 AM

whats the best budget friendly way to build a 355 capable of 400 rwhp through an auto all motor

**RamAir95TA** · 05-13-2011, 07:49 AM

Originally Posted by redtransam95

whats the best budget friendly way to build a 355 capable of 400 rwhp through an auto all motor

Budget friendly? Here's how I would do it...

Stock crank turned, stock resized rods, forged SRP/JE/Probe etc. pistons, -5cc flat-top, oversized .030".

AI 200cc heads or LE2s, medium-size CUSTOM cam + all the bolt-ons.

A friend of mine has this combo and put down 415whp through an M6 with the AI ported stock castings, so an auto will be about ~405HP. Of course it's subjective to a ton of variables but that's a good start.

Excluding the required bolt-ons, heads/cam/bottom end will cost you in the ballpark of $4000-$5000.

**redtransam95** · 05-13-2011, 08:20 AM

id like multiple opions although thats pretty close to what i was thinking

**JPack** · 05-13-2011, 12:37 PM

Stock crank, I beam 6.125 rods and mahle power pack pistons. That was my old set up with some worked heads and layer down really impressive numbers and times. Huge advantage going with a long rod set up. Longer tdc and longer bdc. This increases efficiency of the combustion cycle. It also enables you to run lower octane fuel if you desire. Make sure to deck the block to zero. My old set up was specd out by Jerry Clayton of Clayton racing engines. If anyone knows more than him about building engines I would like to meet them.

**RamAir95TA** · 05-13-2011, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by JPack

Stock crank, I beam 6.125 rods and mahle power pack pistons. That was my old set up with some worked heads and layer down really impressive numbers and times. Huge advantage going with a long rod set up. Longer tdc and longer bdc. This increases efficiency of the combustion cycle. It also enables you to run lower octane fuel if you desire. Make sure to deck the block to zero. My old set up was specd out by Jerry Clayton of Clayton racing engines. If anyone knows more than him about building engines I would like to meet them.

What kind of impressive numbers and times did it put down?

**Pro-jection Eng** · 05-13-2011, 06:35 PM

Originally Posted by JPack

Stock crank, I beam 6.125 rods and mahle power pack pistons. That was my old set up with some worked heads and layer down really impressive numbers and times. Huge advantage going with a long rod set up. Longer tdc and longer bdc. This increases efficiency of the combustion cycle. It also enables you to run lower octane fuel if you desire. Make sure to deck the block to zero. My old set up was specd out by Jerry Clayton of Clayton racing engines. If anyone knows more than him about building engines I would like to meet them.

Longer dwell at TDC AND BDC?

Might want to change Huge as well as it is one of the least important engine "parameters" that people have created.

I put about ZERO importance on rod length as it regards to anything but side-loading, piston mass, and ring package.

"It is what it is" seems to be the shoe that fits here...

**JPack** · 05-13-2011, 08:16 PM

Hmmm, interesting... might want to rethink that. This is nothing new. Following the herd isn't always the right way. Thinking outside the box sometimes produces results that seem unrealistic. Here is an interesting read. Thoughts????? When a man that was responsible for setting top fuel national records says build the engine this way, I tend to listen to his advice.

http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com...%20engine.html

**RamAir95TA** · 05-13-2011, 08:43 PM

Again, what kind of numbers did it put down?

**95formula383lt1** · 05-13-2011, 08:50 PM

i would do a high compression lighter forged quality piston, trick flow 21s ported, 6 inch forged light weight i beam rod, stock crank, custom grind and ported intake as well as full bolt ons.