Fixed an oil leak, now it won't start

[94TAGT]

That's exactly what Im looking to avoid. I wish I could afford to swap up to the 24x but it's not an option right now. Anything can happen, it's just odd it ran fine prior to the repair.

[Injuneer]

I'd reinstall the opti, it's not as hard as people make it out to be to install it off, then check wire routing.

+1

If you have spark, the Opti is not "fried". Worst case would be the rotor coming loose or disintegrating, but that's not likely. If it's trying to fire, it has fuel. Sounds like the timing is way off.

[94TAGT]

Perhaps that's where my confusion lies in. I've owned the car since 2004. Re-built the engine and the opti has always been something that's always eluded me. As far as the timing being off, I was under the assumption the splined opti could only line up one way as its keyed. When I put the opti back on there was no resistance etc. So the next logical step would be to pull the opti and triple check it.

[myltwon]

I've installed it off as have many others. I have a nonvented like you and some will say it's impossible but I've done it before, sat flush with the timing cover too. Since the motor will not fire but turns over timing is likely the issue, this means distributor is off with the timing set or plugs are rerouted wrong. Best thing to do is test fire it before re-installing the water pump, a few seconds of run time won't hurt the engine.

[Injuneer]

I've been helping LT1 owners on sites like this for almost 18 years. Over the years, I have seen MANY cases where people swore they had accurately lined up the splined shaft. They argued that it is physically impossible to assemble it incorrectly. Invariably, when they went through another 5 or 10 posts with no results, they reluctantly decided to check the splined shaft alignment. It was wrong. How that happens, I can't explain. I think once the shaft is forced, the resistance to inserting it incorrectly is gone.

I'm not trying to bust your 'nads here.... I'm just giving you feedback on almost 18 years of helping people with the LT1. You may have it right, you may have it wrong.

[Fastbird]

It's VERY possible to get the opti on with the splines off. Seen it too many times. Had to personally redo a car for a friend once, same issue.

My recommendation would be to pull the water pump back off, pull the opti, line everything up, then test run the car without the water pump on the car to ensure positive starting/running. Won't hurt anything.

[94TAGT]

Oh no offense taken at all. The input is appreciated. My info about it being impossible came from other posts and even a buddy of mine's dad would worked on these things new in the 90s. That's where the assumption that it couldn't be put on incorrectly came from, just surfing forums. Not exactly the best idea but as these things get older the less correct info is available. I'll try to realign it this weekend.

[myltwon]

Actually the info these days is much better than it used to be, high 11s used to be considered fast for a heads /cam car, efi setups on these cars used to be dumped for carbs because of they were "untunable", 4L60es used to be traded off for th350s because it was thought they were an impossible trans to build and stall wall was an incurable phantom, wrong valve spring setups were used all the time, and so on.

[Cathead]

I had the same issue. I rotated the engine around to TDC, found #1 on the inside of the cap to make sure my rotor pointed at #1 correctly. This may not be the easy way but it worked. It is very possible to have your opti seated properly and still be out of time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk