What would you do?

[harner]

FYI - I have $1600 into my 9" from Quick Performance, including the fabbed housing and Moser axles, new QP 3.89s, fluids, used center/stock posi, and labor fees.

I would do the following:
60e Pro Race from @Cahall - 1600
Used LT's, ORY, o2 extensions - 350?
Gears w/install kit - 300
Tune 250
Stall 450

That is what I would do. Overshot your budget a bit, but the tune and header/ory/o2 ext costs are variable.

[theset3]

FYI - I have $1600 into my 9" from Quick Performance, including the fabbed housing and Moser axles, new QP 3.89s, fluids, used center/stock posi, and labor fees.

I would do the following:
60e Pro Race from @Cahall - 1600
Used LT's, ORY, o2 extensions - 350?
Gears w/install kit - 300
Tune 250
Stall 450

That is what I would do. Overshot your budget a bit, but the tune and header/ory/o2 ext costs are variable.

Yeah this is what I'll probably end up doing. I don't really care about bragging horsepower numbers, but I'd like to be in the mid/low 12's 1/4.

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[harner]

Yeah this is what I'll probably end up doing. I don't really care about bragging horsepower numbers, but I'd like to be in the mid/low 12's 1/4.

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Prepare for lots of weight reduction. It'll be tough to get there without some more power truthfully. LT's and gear made my car a second faster, but it was still in the 13s. Not that I'm a pro driver or anything. You can spend all that money in power adders, but you're just going to break stuff down the line anyway. It's a lot more fun to drive a bolt on car that has neck breaking shifts, ability to stall/launch than it is to drive something overpowered that you're afraid to beat due to something flying apart IMO. Unless you're a sicko and into that kind of thing LOL

[shownomercy]

Prepare for lots of weight reduction. It'll be tough to get there without some more power truthfully. LT's and gear made my car a second faster, but it was still in the 13s. Not that I'm a pro driver or anything. You can spend all that money in power adders, but you're just going to break stuff down the line anyway. It's a lot more fun to drive a bolt on car that has neck breaking shifts, ability to stall/launch than it is to drive something overpowered that you're afraid to beat due to something flying apart IMO. Unless you're a sicko and into that kind of thing LOL

This.

And end of the day, if you are a 90% DD, 10% race car, being afraid to hit to gas cause of tire spin or hitting 100mph faster than hell well, its not as much fun as the internet likes to say it is.

Build something thats reliable, sounds/looks good, and puts a smile on your face.

[SSlowBoat]

This.

And end of the day, if you are a 90% DD, 10% race car, being afraid to hit to gas cause of tire spin or hitting 100mph faster than hell well, its not as much fun as the internet likes to say it is.

Build something thats reliable, sounds/looks good, and puts a smile on your face.

Did you just post some logical thought Mr turbo??

I agree with @harner and @shownomercy , a bolt on stalled or even heads cam with a good stall and trans is ALOT of fun, idn, I've driven what should be a 5xx whp built car and honestly it's a little nuts barely pressing the gas and the tires blowing off, it gets annoying. My impala was alot of fun heads/cam/trans/stall. Could putt putt around all day no problem, but hit the loud pedal and things got interesting quick

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[shownomercy]

Did you just post some logical thought Mr turbo??

I agree with @harner and @shownomercy , a bolt on stalled or even heads cam with a good stall and trans is ALOT of fun, idn, I've driven what should be a 5xx whp built car and honestly it's a little nuts barely pressing the gas and the tires blowing off, it gets annoying. My impala was alot of fun heads/cam/trans/stall. Could putt putt around all day no problem, but hit the loud pedal and things got interesting quick

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I don't think I have ever seriously recommended anyone going down the path I did.

[gmpowered]

Yeah this is what I'll probably end up doing. I don't really care about bragging horsepower numbers, but I'd like to be in the mid/low 12's 1/4.

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Low mid 12s a common baby cam will get you there. On stock heads. Lt4 cc503 (or similar) both have a good history of running well into the 12s. They make good dds as well.
I would buy used as much as possible. And do as much as possible diy.
I would do a stall before gears on a DD as well.

[theset3]

How does this cam setup look to you guys? Anything Im missing?

-CC503 cam
-Comp cams beehive springs
-comp cams retainers
-comp cams valve locks
-comp cams pro mag 1.6rr
-ARP 7/16" rocker arm studs
-trickflow guide plates
-trickflow 7.2" pushrods
-felpro valve seals
-crank sprocket (recommendations?)
-cam sprocket (recommendations?)
-timing chain (recommendations?)

All of this on my own labor should put me around 1100.

[guppymech]

I think you should do a stall and gears before a cam change. A cammed engine responds better when it can get into the powerband quicker. For sure you'll get the power you're after with a cam change but you gotta lay the groundwork first. I don't see headers in you list.

[theset3]

Any stall you recommend? Im seeing a general consensus on a 3600, I was thinking Yank, but they are pricey.

Im thinking going with a Cahall pro race 4l60e with a 3600, should take up my budget, but worth it.