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  1. #1
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    Default First time on the bottle checklist

    I was hoping to get some advice from you guys with experience with this stuff. This is my first time messing with nitrous oxide. I found a pretty good deal on a brand new unopened dyno tune wet nozzle kit with a bunch of extras; bottle warmer, electric bottle opener, purge kit, RPM activated window switch, and some other switches and accessories. I still need to go through and figure out exactly what I have, I just got a big box full of goodies.

    Link to base kit:
    https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idproduct=110

    Extras:
    https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idcategory=33
    https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...p?idproduct=17

    My car is a bolt on only LT1 with 96k on it, SS3600 stalled stock 4l60e with shift kit, and stock 10 bolt with girdle and factory 3.42's. It has a pretty good oil leak right now from almost everywhere, so I ordered a front timing cover gasket set, intake manifold gaskets and "the right stuff" to seal the problem areas, and oil pan gasket to try to seal it up before I start spraying it on a leaky engine. I was also thinking with the mileage on it, it might be a good idea to upgrade the valve springs and do roller rockers (I'm not going to do a cam yet because I'd like to dial it in first).

    I did a bit of research on which plugs to go with and I think I'll go with the BR6EF's, I should probably upgrade from the factory wires as well. I ordered a Racetronix 255lph pump to go along with it, some LS1 injectors with low miles (same flowrate but should be more efficient than my 96k mile stock LT1s), and an aluminum trick flow TB elbow to drill and tap for the nozzle. I guess what I really need before I get started is:

    - spark plug selection confirmation
    - spark plug wires
    - location of nozzle placement
    - valve spring and roller rockers for a bolt on spray only car
    - any parts I may be missing
    - anything else I should do before installing and starting to spray

    Hopefully I can get some pointers from you guys before I start going crazy with this. I am doing the tuning myself, it looks like I'll be focusing on pulling timing and keeping and eye on the AFR via my LC-1 wideband. I might give tunerpro a try instead of tunercats. I think since the trans is stock I wont spray out of the hole, and probably just hit the switch when I feel like I'm going fast enough not to put too much of a load on it. I'm pretty excited to start with 50 and work my way up to 150. I was back and forth with the idea of ditching the LT1, selling it and swapping a 6.0 and start messing with turbos but I got too good of a deal on this setup, wont be tearing into the engine, way cheaper, and I can always mess with lsx turbo down the road. I have a spare 50k mile shortblock and spare 10 bolt in case I break something so I'm not too worried, mostly worried about the trans.
    Last edited by KLaBZ28; 06-23-2015 at 10:41 AM.

    95 Z28 hard top - LT1, 4L60e, bolt ons, Yank SS3600, suspension, viking coil overs, 3.42 10 bolt, 3320 lbs - 12.304 @ 108.52mph 1.69 60'
    08 Saab 9-7x - L96 6.0 swap, L92 heads/intake/TB, LS6 cam, LS9 springs, 7.425" hardened pushrods, CAI, 1-3/4" stepped LT's, catback, 4L60E, FTI 3000 278mm converter

  2. #2
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    Mar 2014
    Name
    Kris
    Vehicle
    1996 Trans Am
    Location
    Bucksport Maine
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Hopefully the oil leaks were fixed before spraying, with a "broken in" motor and nitrous the base pressure can get up there and make those leaks worse!
    1996 Pontiac Firebird, Forged 396 LTx, Nitrous Outlet plate, 4L80E, Moser 9". Just a little street car.

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