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Thread: Crank
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07-23-2015, 07:54 AM #11InActive Member
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- Nov 2014
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- Walter Devine
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- 1996 Z28 2002 Z28
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- Rowletts, Kentucky
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Hey shoot me a PM. I have some stock cranks that we can regrind in our shop. We too are located in Kentucky. Could probably have one ready to go in a few days.
96 Z28 LT1 stroker, cage 9 inch, spray 10.24@134.58 1.54 60
02 Z28 edge converter, LTs, lid, cam, spray 12.0@112N/A
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07-23-2015, 09:15 AM #12LTX Master
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- Jun 2013
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- Beaver
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- 1994 camaro Z28
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- KENTUCKY
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Im not sure what I might do.You can get a LT1 crank it only for the LT1 from summitt for $300.Waltsfastz,I just sent you a PM.
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94 Z28,4A,LLOYD SG CAM,1.6RR,SHIFT KIT,2,800 STALL,HEADERS,HEADS PORTED & POLISHED,ALL INTERNAL ENGINE PARTS LUNATI !!!
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07-23-2015, 12:49 PM #13Xtreme Member
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- Apr 2012
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- Mike
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- 96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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- Conshohocken, PA
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You can argue about nodular iron vs cast steel all you want, but the biggest flaw with the aftermarket cast cranks is that they have drilled rod throws. That may be great for shaving some grams from a counterweight, but can you guess where they like to break?
Last edited by Catmaigne; 07-23-2015 at 12:51 PM.
96 Z28 - ERE-383, AFRs, 9", Procharger D1, TermiX, etc.
95 Roadmaster - T56 swap, H/C, suspension (aka The Cammaster)
95 Firehawk - LE1s, suspension, brakes, HPDE car --> Track Vids
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07-23-2015, 02:34 PM #14
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07-23-2015, 03:08 PM #15Xtreme Member
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- Apr 2012
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- Mike
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- 96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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Not sure, but google broken eagle lt1 crank and you'll find a bunch of snapped cast cranks from various low/medium power builds. Most of the them are cheapo 383 kits but a 1/4" increase in stroke shouldn't be enough to snap a crank around or under 400whp. It's not uncommon for them to break @ pins 1 or 4 near the biggest counterweights. Such is life when your crank isn't fully counterweighted... gotta love small blocks.
96 Z28 - ERE-383, AFRs, 9", Procharger D1, TermiX, etc.
95 Roadmaster - T56 swap, H/C, suspension (aka The Cammaster)
95 Firehawk - LE1s, suspension, brakes, HPDE car --> Track Vids
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07-23-2015, 03:21 PM #16LTX Master
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- Jun 2013
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- Beaver
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- 1994 camaro Z28
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- KENTUCKY
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I have a helicore in my crank.i stripped the threads on it.Thats why im wanting another one.if I wont have any trouble out of then one I have with the helicore.Ill just use it.Should I use my crank or not?
BEAVER
94 Z28,4A,LLOYD SG CAM,1.6RR,SHIFT KIT,2,800 STALL,HEADERS,HEADS PORTED & POLISHED,ALL INTERNAL ENGINE PARTS LUNATI !!!
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07-23-2015, 06:04 PM #17Lurker
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- Dec 2011
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- Jonathan Englund
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- 1994 z28/1994 formula
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is the helicoil in the hole for the hub and balancer?
94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness
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07-24-2015, 08:32 AM #18
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If the helicoil was installed properly,it can be stronger than the original threads. I have helicoiled big block head bolts that stood up to 13.1 compression in an altered that ran 9.02 in the 1/4. I've also tapped the crank for the next size larger bolt and it worked fine also.
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07-24-2015, 09:55 AM #19LTX Master
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- 1994 camaro Z28
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- 605
It was pit in right.it has a bigger bolt in it.When I took the pulley bolt out.the threads came out with it.So I just drilled and helicored it.thanks for the info.i think ill just use my crank.
BEAVER
94 Z28,4A,LLOYD SG CAM,1.6RR,SHIFT KIT,2,800 STALL,HEADERS,HEADS PORTED & POLISHED,ALL INTERNAL ENGINE PARTS LUNATI !!!
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09-04-2015, 05:42 AM #20
You are high as hell if you think that Chinese cast cranks are stronger than GM cast cranks. I am an engineer too, I see why you would think it by the numbers, but if you think the thousands of hours and quality control and GM engineers can't make a better cast crank than a bunch of children in china you are crazy. Google "eagle cast crank failure" and you'll see a ton of broken cranks like above.
94 Z28 M6 hardtop, bolt ons, weight reduction, 12.39 at 3250lbs
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