24X + XFI + XIM = Will it start?

[BLK WS6]

As the title implies, has anyone got the 24X crank/cam hardware, Fast XFI, and Fast XIM all to work together? Some say it works...some say it doesn't...
@The SRZ

[GuillaumeC]

Yes it works, why wouldn't it?

I have the 24x on mine with a Holley EFI. When I spoke with tech support both at Holley and FAST they both said it worked just fine.

As long as the sensors work the ECU thinks it's an LSx and it'll work.

[Fastbird]

I spoke with Brian Macy about this and he said yes it will work BUT you're most likely going to lose your factory tach. I wanted to go this route myself but that was a deal breaker for me.

[SwampWS6]

I spoke with Brian Macy about this and he said yes it will work BUT you're most likely going to lose your factory tach. I wanted to go this route myself but that was a deal breaker for me.

X2. I think for the other functions on the dash to work it could cost a pretty penny. A couple guys says it cost the an additional $2-300 to have everything to work like factory. Its pretty much why im only going 24x

[BLK WS6]

I spoke with Brian Macy about this and he said yes it will work BUT you're most likely going to lose your factory tach. I wanted to go this route myself but that was a deal breaker for me.

Who is Brian Macy with? FAST? And does anyone know who has ACTUALLY done this combo?

[GuillaumeC]

Brian is with Horsepower connections, he does FAST, Holley, etc...

What do you need to know exactly?
It WILL run the motor, that's for sure. Any 24x LS compatible ECU will work with the 24x system on the LT1. What can be an issue is the factory gauges.

[Fastbird]

Brian also teaches the EFI University FAST XFI courses. He know's his shit, was riding shotgun and tuning for Shawn Fink in the outlaw class at Drag Week last year among other things.

According to @JPack who I don't doubt for a second, since the gauges are analog, they should be able to be directly wired to each individual sensor.

[JPack]

If you want to do it on the cheap, all sensors except speedo work of each sensor directly. Stock pcm is a gathering point and then go out to dash. It keeps it simple, neat and clean with only having to have a few wires to head out to the dash and using a common ground. If you want to do it easy, depin all unused wiring from stock harness and keep only simple sensor wires. Fuel level is by ohms for level, voltage just needs a simple key on b+, tach will be based on what you go with, prob through xfi since coil on plug, temp is a one wire feed from stock sensor. Oil pressure is 1 wire from sensor. Most of the cluster powers on with key on.

Nkw for speedo, using stock pcm it will work just fine. Remote mount it and hide it out of the way. Still able to tap in and provram for gear changes or tire size if needed. I had mine under dash hidden. Other option for speedo if you just want to ditch it all is the dakota box.

The aftermarket computer you choose will need to see temp, iat, rpm, and positive signal from vss so it knows car is in motion.

What I dont know from you is if your car is auto or manual. If manual no issue. If auto and still have 4l60e you will need to keep the stock pcm for shift points. I am not familiar with any of that and aftermarket computers as my trans is a th350 rev man valve body. I do my own shifting.

If you need more info i can dig up all my notes and depin info i had for when i still used the stock computer and my dfi with stock gauges. I have since ditched the stock cluster and went all aftermarket in a custom dash. Its been awhile but i should have all my info laying around. I want to say i kept like 8 wires to make it all work.

[BLK WS6]

There seems to be some issue with the cam and crank sync. I was hoping to get some info on the actual settings from someone who is running it successfully.
@Tricked-Out-Toy

[milehighz28]

It works,I have that setup in my car. I also have a spare xim if you haven't bought one yet. (Didn't read the rest of the posts, so I hope this is useful info)


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