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  1. #1
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    Question Guideplate question

    I'm finally about to pull my motor and swap parts over to my new one. The motor currently has 1.6 NSA promags with 7/16 studs and GM guide plates. I was wondering if I could just reuse guide plates or if they wear out and I should get new ones. I haven't pulled the motor or valve covers yet so I'm not even sure if they are worn.
    96 T/A WS6 clone

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    I had a problem with GM plates wearing against PR

    Yours may be fine, just look at them when you pull VC

    I went with the ISKY adjustables which allowed me to better center RR tip on valve....YMMV
    96 BBB 383/T56

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    I've seen a few people running the Iskys and though it might be a better option. Do you actually have to tack weld them after you adjust them? Others say that you have to adjust them when the motor is in the car so you can start it to check for proper alignment. I'd rather install them while the motor is on a stand.
    96 T/A WS6 clone

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    i'd look them over and make sure there is no wear patterns forming and then reuse them..

    I got trickflow guide plates for my heads
    94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
    94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
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    some type of adjustable guide plates are needed to align all 16 valves perfect.

    Also chweck on the Trick Flows and make sure the PR is not bottoming out and hitting the back of the slot where the PR travels in the guide plate.

    You usually have to remove the guide plate to see the wear mark.

    I would tack them and lable each one for each cyl. if it was mine and i would suggest tacking them but I know of people that have ran them with out tacking and no prioblem.

    Lloyd
    Lloyd

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    Quote Originally Posted by huntr1117 View Post
    I've seen a few people running the Iskys and though it might be a better option. Do you actually have to tack weld them after you adjust them?
    I never did. I'd tighten the studs enough to still budge them to make final adjustments and then torque studs to spec. It will be somewhat of a PITA because the halves will want to shift around. You'd be better off doing them on the stand. Once you get the engine into the bay it will be a challenge to see how the rollers are contacting the valve tips.

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    huntr

    Lloyd & SS RRR pretty much say it. FWIW I did not tack weld my ISKY adjustable

    While I did have wear issues with the GM ones, very quickly BTW, I also saw that some of the RR did not line up well L-R on the valve tip so I went adjustable ISKY's and as SSS RR notes just tightened the RR studs enough so I can slide the guide plate halves to get the RR to be DEAD NUTS center on the valve stem tip

    Doing this with motor on stand would be way easier than in car.

    I had to grind a few of the ISKY halve as RR wanted to be closer. That is why the ISKY's are good so you can either spread the halves out or push together. If you ever pull the RR studs mark the guide plates to go back the way you had them as they are adjusted specific to that cyl. This is where tack welding them would come in handy.
    96 BBB 383/T56

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