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Thread: arp rod bolts?

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    Default arp rod bolts?

    Do you guys think that arp rod bolts would be good to put in the stock rods with a 231/239 LE grind going in? Going to run stock heads, although I might have them ported later on which would raise my power band higher, correct me if i'm wrong on that..

    also another question... I know you guys aren't a fan of the pistons in the short block of the cam, atleast for nitrous anyways. Would they work for an n/a car though? I've scrapped the nitrous idea. This picture of the piston sucks but thats not a hole, its made that way. maybe I'll get a better picture tonight or something..
    0309141640.jpg
    Last edited by englundjd; 10-17-2014 at 03:36 PM.
    94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
    94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
    07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness

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    ARP rod bolts are always a good idea. Are you rebuilding your short block? The LT1 rods would need to be resized after installing the bolts. If you were not planning on a rebuild (sending your rods to a machine shop) i would just keep the factory bolts and keep the rpm low, or as high as you feel comfortable with.
    -David-
    1985 Camaro Z28 (Under Construction)
    1994 Firebird Formula - LT1/4L60e (The Daily)

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    I understand that the stock LT1 Mahles can take some abuse. Hard to say whatever piston you're running won't break apart without knowing the brand and design. Mahle has been making pistons for plenty of OE and aftermarket apps for years and the alloys are top notch most of the time.

    You can pay all that money for ARP bolts and resizing or pick up a set of 4340 I beams with 7/16" bolts for a little more (and they'll probably have to be resized out of the box). The Scats and Ohios are cheap. Only real con is your rotating assembly will definitely have to be rebalanced (might be able to get away without it w/arps in stock rods).
    96 Z28 - ERE-383, AFRs, 9", Procharger D1, TermiX, etc.
    95 Roadmaster - T56 swap, H/C, suspension (aka The Cammaster)
    95 Firehawk - LE1s, suspension, brakes, HPDE car --> Track Vids

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    yea i'm not planning a rebuild, I was just looking to throw the cam in and the arp bolts and go. If it takes that much to do the rod bolts I wont worry about it. thanks guys. Also the pistons are sealed power, which iirc is just a rebranded speedpro hyper piston
    94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
    94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
    07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness

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    Pretty sure Federal Mogul/Sealed Power/Speed Pro/TRW are all under the same company. They generally make more budget minded pistons but I've noticed they're all quite a bit beefier and heavier than say a Probe/KB/other budget brands. Would still keep the spray to a minimum if you really want the motor to last but there are those who have hit stockers with a 200 shot without melting anything... Definitely not good for longevity but it's been done.
    96 Z28 - ERE-383, AFRs, 9", Procharger D1, TermiX, etc.
    95 Roadmaster - T56 swap, H/C, suspension (aka The Cammaster)
    95 Firehawk - LE1s, suspension, brakes, HPDE car --> Track Vids

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    yea i chucked the spray idea a few weeks ago after realizing I have nowhere to fill my bottles within 50 miles...
    94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
    94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
    07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness

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