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Thread: need one lifter...
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10-05-2014, 01:09 PM #1Lurker
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need one lifter...
Hey guys I found one bad lifter in my firebird, its got the original LT1 style lifters in it, I just want to replace just that lifter as all the rest look beautiful. My question is: can I replace just that one with an ls7 lifter (current specified factory replacement for lt1) or do I need to track down an original lt1 lifter?
Car is going to get a cam if that makes any difference...
orrr maybe it'd be better to get a whole new set? I dont really know what to say here cause the factory ones look so good but they have ~130k miles on them... what do you guys think?Last edited by englundjd; 10-05-2014 at 01:59 PM.
94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness
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10-05-2014, 07:28 PM #2
I would say new cam new lifters but you could just replace 1 if you want
forged 383,9.6:1,280xfi, trickflow heads,edlebrock lt4 intake,moser 12 bolt w/373
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10-05-2014, 07:51 PM #3Administrator
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new cam new lifters. yolo
personally, if i was that far in it thats what i would do, but otherwise, i have plenty of stock lifters if you need one1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.64 @ 139.4mph
1994 Camaro Vert - SBE LE1 Summit 8802 Cam - The Cruiser
1995 Firebird Formula - Dark Aqua Metallic - maybe restore?
The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ P600B / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E/Holley Terminator EFI/little huff of spray
10.16 @ 138mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank/Gail Cahall!
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10-05-2014, 09:53 PM #4The FABRICATOR!
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Not a big deal with roller lifters like it is on flat tappets. But if you've got the scratch, might as well buy a whole set
Chris
1985 Monte Carlo SS
Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!
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10-05-2014, 10:34 PM #5
If you've got the money and you're that deep into the engine already, I'd say replace them all. Especially since you had one fail.
1997 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 clone | Build Thread | - just needs paint!
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD (the DD)
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10-05-2014, 10:59 PM #6
Roll the lifter wheel against the inside of your wrist on the sensitive skin. This skin is soft and you can feel if the wheel is catching. Check the surface very closely. If all is good you can reuse the old ones.
The best way to kill a lifter is to run the engine against the rev limiter during a burnout. It can mushroom the lifters out a bit at the roller end.68 Mechanical Alcohol Injected LT1.
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10-06-2014, 05:40 PM #7Lurker
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Thanks guys, I think i'll order a set of ls7's
@noice I'm pretty sure it was over revved somehow and it screwed it up good lol. The lifter took the beating, pushrods, rockers, and springs are all ok/straight.
the guy I bought the car from said he was racing a honda and he was way ahead of it then it started knocking and locked up... needless to say he didn't win
flat roller lifter.jpg0928141457.jpg94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness
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10-06-2014, 06:08 PM #810 Second N/A Club
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Why is the "dog bone" above the spider in that pic? If that's how it was when you pulled the intake that's what killed the lifter and your cam is probably shot too!
-Josh
co-owner of BDBRacing.com
NMCA OC 9004
96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!
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10-06-2014, 06:48 PM #9
If you want to see how bad things are when you bounce off of the limiter, look at what happens in the belt tension pulley at the starting line. Before you say, that is just the belt stretching, rubber belts are used in place of timing chains. There is very little stretch.
When the engine is under load, the cranshaft is twisting, the front of the crankshaft doesn't twist much but the rear most part of the crank twists the most as all the torque must flow through it to get to the rear of the of the engine. When you rev limit the engine, the crank unloads and untwists until the limiter allows the engine to rev again and it twists up again.
This kind of motion is god awful on things, but it is REALLY bad on the valve train. It makes valve retainers/keepers hard to knock out, bends pushrods, floats lifters. All sorts of bad shit.
This is why running an automatic with a transbrake is awesome, you can rev limit the engine at the line at low RPMs, like 3K.68 Mechanical Alcohol Injected LT1.
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10-06-2014, 08:11 PM #10Lurker
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You know I asked myself that same question when i pulled the intake
. Surprisingly enough the lifter that is still in the bore with the pushrod still in the cup was the bad one. And my guess is the guy hit the limiter at higher rpm and cause this, then proceeded lockup his engine.
@noice thats a cool video, I personally avoid the limiter at all costs lol94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness
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