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  1. #1
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    Default engine combo for street/strip

    Would a 396 be a good choice for the street, as far as longevity goes

  2. #2
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    Thin Pistons. Eh. If it's built right. What's wrong with a forged 355 and spray or a stout 383?
    Last edited by SSlowBoat; 09-25-2014 at 09:38 AM.
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.64 @ 139.4mph
    1994 Camaro Vert - SBE LE1 Summit 8802 Cam - The Cruiser
    1995 Firebird Formula - Dark Aqua Metallic - maybe restore?
    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ P600B / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E/Holley Terminator EFI/little huff of spray
    10.16 @ 138mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank/Gail Cahall!

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    yep, 355 or 383 is all you need.

    If using a LT1 intake, TB, MAF, typical headers and heads that are available for LTx engines you cant really feed a 396 properluya nd will never see any benefit overa 383.


    A 355 or 383 is a better choice.

    Lloyd

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  5. #4
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    just remember, its not just about the motor, the total package comes into play. trans, stall, gears, etc all have a factor.
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.64 @ 139.4mph
    1994 Camaro Vert - SBE LE1 Summit 8802 Cam - The Cruiser
    1995 Firebird Formula - Dark Aqua Metallic - maybe restore?
    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ P600B / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E/Holley Terminator EFI/little huff of spray
    10.16 @ 138mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank/Gail Cahall!

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    Thank's guy's 355 or 383 it will be

  7. #6

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    396 has the same wall thickness as a 355 or 383, just a 3.875" stroke instead of 3.48 or 3.75. Like Lloyd said 396 needs more air, but with a PCM limit of 7100 and the fact that a 3.875" crank is the same cost about as 3.75, the 396 would need less rpm with the same heads. Personally I'd do a 396 and enjoy the little more torque and be different.

  8. #7
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    There's more side loading on the cylinder walls with a lower rod length/stroke ratio and the acceleration of the pistons/rods will be much greater. Your bottom end will see a lot more stress per given RPM but that can be countered with using lighter parts. A good 4340 crank, short/lightweight pistons, and the longest rod you can fit that is strong but not too heavy will make a beastly 396 motor you can turn to 7k safely. At that point it would be a good to ditch the LT1 intake for a single plane like a converted super vic. If you're not going to spray a 383 then I don't see any reason not to go all the way with a 396. You're going to be buying all new parts anyway.
    96 Z28 - ERE-383, AFRs, 9", Procharger D1, TermiX, etc.
    95 Roadmaster - T56 swap, H/C, suspension (aka The Cammaster)
    95 Firehawk - LE1s, suspension, brakes, HPDE car --> Track Vids

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    I've had pretty good luck with my forged 355 it has 6 inch rods . It definitely surprises people .
    97 firehawk m6 with a forged long rod 355 stock heads and intake soon to be upgraded to LE 21* tfs heads and a big ass cam , rpm built level 5 t56 trans s60 with 4.30 gears umi suspension walbro pump and hot wire kit and a spinning best 12.36 @ 114 crap 60 foot.

  10. #9

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    Like catmainge said, if you are not going to spray too much go 396, if you are spraying you want a bigger top of the piston, so you need shorter rods, a 5.85 or 6" rod will leave the top of the piston on a 396 pretty thin, so a 5.7 rod 383 or a 6" rod 355 is better for big spray, but if you are NA it's not as big of a deal. Longer rods decrease piston acceleration and side loading. Since you are already buying everything, I'd go 396. And like I said a 396 uses more air so with the same cam and heads the power would be at a lower rpm than a 383, and more of it.

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