ABS Delete - Proportioning Valve choices

[shownomercy]

You shouldn't need a prop valve for the front. I just ran a line from MC to a T fitting on the K member and both front lines into that.

This is how mine is.

Lines run off master and quick dash under booster and under fender wells. Can drop K now without disconnecting brake lines.

[Fastbird]

This is how mine is.

Lines run off master and quick dash under booster and under fender wells. Can drop K now without disconnecting brake lines.

This is what i'm doing also. Except my passenger side is going to chase the firewall around to the master cylinder. I'm debating between stainless or Cunifer line (copper nickel) right now.

[shownomercy]

This is what i'm doing also. Except my passenger side is going to chase the firewall around to the master cylinder. I'm debating between stainless or Cunifer line (copper nickel) right now.

FYI, if you run the line across the flexplate/clutch... you will need to shield it in 1/8 inch steel tube.

IF you want NHRA tech passing stuff.

[Featherburner]

This is what i'm doing also. Except my passenger side is going to chase the firewall around to the master cylinder. I'm debating between stainless or Cunifer line (copper nickel) right now.

Unless you have a hydraulic flare tool, Cunifer is the way to go.

[Fastbird]

FYI, if you run the line across the flexplate/clutch... you will need to shield it in 1/8 inch steel tube.

IF you want NHRA tech passing stuff.

Did not know that. Hmmm......may pull it round the front side then......don't know yet. Gotta look.

Unless you have a hydraulic flare tool, Cunifer is the way to go.

I've been doing steel line by hand since 2008 so it's no issue with me at this point. But stainless......that's a WHOLE other beast. I like the cunifer because it is so VERY easy to work with, but you can't beat the look of a polished stainless line either. Decisions decisions.

[Featherburner]

I've been doing steel line by hand since 2008 so it's no issue with me at this point. But stainless......that's a WHOLE other beast. I like the cunifer because it is so VERY easy to work with, but you can't beat the look of a polished stainless line either. Decisions decisions.

Yeah steel is easy. Stainless on the other hand needs a hydraulic flare tool. I used Cunifer when I built the linelock on my G8 and it was the easiest brake line work that I have done in my 25 years of doing brake line work.

[96LT1355Z28]

Single in/out here for the back front is a T to both sides. Ran my passenger side on the firewall then up the frame rail. Never had any tech's look twice at it at the track, not sure if the SFI bellhousing covers it or they just haven't noticed.
@shownomercy, do you know the NHRA rule number that applies by chance? Now I gotta look when I get home to make sure I'm legal!

[shownomercy]

Single in/out here for the back front is a T to both sides. Ran my passenger side on the firewall then up the frame rail. Never had any tech's look twice at it at the track, not sure if the SFI bellhousing covers it or they just haven't noticed.
@shownomercy, do you know the NHRA rule number that applies by chance? Now I gotta look when I get home to make sure I'm legal!

http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/2...ons_120413.pdf

Section 3.1 (page 16)

[Fastbird]

I went with the dual in triple out wilwood I was looking at. Should be in next week. Just in time for two weeks of being home alone.

[MoeHorsePower]

We'll I tried to install the SLP line loc kit with no luck, stripped some nuts, abs usual Simple install. Anyway I haven't had rear brakes for a few years now and suspect the abs so want to go manual value and get rid of the abs. Anyone have full pics of this type of install? Thanks