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Thread: stalling at running temp
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03-14-2014, 10:24 PM #1LTX Master
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stalling at running temp
my car is stalling when at running temp like every time i come to a stop,start it back up and it idles fine till i move it again it's a m6 so it's driving me crazy

....i haven't had it happen with my laptop plugged in so i can't give you guy's any reading's.i'm about to do a 24x so i would like to get it fixed before i do the upgrade.i have a new TPS and a spare IAC motor and a fuel filter not on the car yet.i did change to a 52mm tb and i left the IAC and the TPS that came on it it and it worked fine for a while but i'm having problem's now.i suppose i should get it to do it when i am plugged in before i start changing parts huh....
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03-15-2014, 12:33 AM #2
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Sounds like a problem when it is open loop aka the car is at running temp. Lets start with what is activated in open loop.
Lets start with the MAF and o2s. If one (or both) is bad, then it could throw off the a\f ration. In a perfect world I'd ask you to use a wideband, but thats expensive. Try unplugging your MAF and taking it for a ride. If it doesnt stall out. Then you know.
Try that and report back. Also we could use a bit more detail about the car. Year, mods, etc
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03-15-2014, 01:05 AM #3LTX Master
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03-15-2014, 10:13 AM #4LTx Guru
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Actually, the PCM/engine start in open loop, and goes into closed loop when the coolant heats up, the O2 sensors heat up, and timer (206 seconds) times out.
This is a case where scan data it invaluable - what happens to the O2 readings, how far off are the BLM's, is the coolant temp sensor reading correctly, what does the PCM do with the IAC motor to try and keep it at the programmed idle speed?SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
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03-15-2014, 07:46 PM #5LTX Master
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i did the kiss method(keep it simple stupid).
it was fine till i put on the 52mm BBK(100 bux shipped off egay) so i changed the IAC to the one off my old T/B and boom no more problem's.....
upon further investigation i noticed ding's and chips on the IAC that i took off.so i'm assuming the BBK was having problems with idling.someone was tapping on the IAC?the BBK was like new so it's cool,it just came with the IAC and the TPS so i just threw it on and adjusted the TPS it worked fine,well ok for a few weeks.but judging buy the way it's running now the idle was never right after the T/B swap.when i came to a stop especially under hard breaking it was dipping to like 4 or 500 rpm than going up to 800 it was slow to respond.now she holds strong at 800 even if you lock em up.Last edited by 95albinobird; 03-15-2014 at 08:13 PM.
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03-15-2014, 10:28 PM #6
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interesting... I am having the same issue with my car except mine is auto. My car essentially sat for over a year and a half after I burnt up the trans and since replacing the trans, it hasn't been the same. I have to shift into neutral and rev it to keep it from stalling as I come to a stop light.
I was thinking of checking the tune and changing the iac values but haven't gotten to it yet. After reading about yours, I almost want to change it and see what happens. I'd have to buy one though.92 Vette with a 383, cnc'd lt4's and a vortech ysi.
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