New to this

[SJx408]

160 stat works coupled with lower temps set for your fans to kick on. Keeps the engine running cooler. I liked it. My gauge crept up to 1/4 mark and stayed there consistently. Even in traffic it never crept up past the 1/2 mark. I use a 195 stat right now, thinking about switching back. And all LT's well be about the same when it comes to gains. Each one has its own characteristics some are slip fit others have flanges. The materials used are different 16 gauge 18 gauge mild steel up to stainless steel. 304 and 409 SS are used I could be wrong though. But over all LT's = HP and audible sex !

Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

[Catmaigne]

Descreening and porting the MAF will screw up your tune. You don't need to on a bolt on car.

The LPP headers are nice and made from 321 stainless which is nice, but they're 1-7/8 stepped which is probably too big for your stock top end.

[FormulaWs6]

my fan is wired on a switch for some reason? so figured the 160 thermostat would be easy. any power gains from it tho?

[FormulaWs6]

i plan on geting a tune when i finish the bolt ons so i guess the maf will be the last mod befor tune. so u think the lpp headers wouldnt be as efective as the pacesetters?

[SexyTransAm]

160 stat will keep everything cooler. And alow u to turn the motor up in the tune. So no the stat will not gain any power by its self.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

[Ghettogmc23]

I haven't seen it mentioned so thought I'd say it just so you know its available. You can always invest in your own tuning software that way you can change it for how you want as you mod it. Starting off your gonna leave a lot of power on the table compared to a mail order tune from someone experienced, but once you catch on it's very handy and can even be used for diagnostic purposes

[Catmaigne]

Something like a ported MAF has to be tuned in person or with datalogs. There are calibration tables you will be throwing out of wack by touching the stock unit. Unless you plan on having someone dyno tune the thing, I wouldn't touch it. It's a waste of time and money.

The pacesetters will do just fine. They have 1-3/4 primaries which is enough for even a h/c car.

And I wouldn't run the 160 T-stat if you live somewhere with cold winters and take the car on short trips. You really need to get your motor up to a decent operating temp so any condensation that forms can burn off or else you're gonna find some jelly in your valve covers.

[Leedogg]

I have to be honest- You have a very rare bird. IF it is 100% unmolested, with that low of mileage...it pains me to see it get severely modded. PLEASE don't do ANYTHING to that car that can't be undone, AND keep all the stock parts.

Build #'s I found doing a search:
524 Formula WS6's were built in 1996.

6 speed cars:
-139 black
-105 red
-51 white
-37 green
-27 silver

A4 cars:
-52 black
-55 red
-24 white
-21 green
-13 silver


NOW- with all that said. LT Headers, ORP(with O2 sims), Catback, freeflow air filter, TB bypass, and Tuning should get you there(or very close). Gears will actually hurt your dyno #'s- yet will yield results at the track. another dyno trick is to make sure to run your tires at max recommended PSI...less rolling resistance will net better #'s.

I have had every MAF config there is, and I am back to running a stock unmolested unit. I am also still running a stock TB, as I couldn't find any real evidence that a larger one helps...and I am making over 400 rwhp. At 300 rwhp- i think it is a complete waste of money.