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Thread: Tell me about your 396 setups
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09-13-2008, 08:58 PM #1
BrianEsserGuest
Tell me about your 396 setups
Like the title says. I'd like to see some 396 setups. I've more or less got an empty block (2bolt) to start with. So open to suggestions and recommendations.
Also I'd like estimates of total cost. Trying to sort out my budget for next year. Now that the GF is moving out, I'll have much more to spend.
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09-14-2008, 09:11 AM #2
4-bolt main caps, zero deck-height, forged 3.875" crank, 6" forged H-Beam rods, forged pistons, internally balanced rotating assembly.
WDLast edited by The Engineer; 09-14-2008 at 09:15 AM.
2009 LTX Shoot-Out Modified N/A Top Speed, 126.9 MPH and Final Four
2008 LTX Shoot-Out Modified N/A Low ET and Runner-Up
1997 Z28, A4 Factory Power Windows and Hatch-Back Release
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09-14-2008, 09:34 AM #3
Cost ... heh ... yeah. You may want to get a spare set of underwear.
Expect:
$1700-2000 for the rotating assembly (including pistons, rings, crank and rods)
$1300-1700 for machine work (cleaning, decking, clearancing, boring, honing, line bore,
welding when you hit the water jacket, blok-fill when you give up on welding, crank balancing)
$600-900 for a studded 4-bolt main (labor and parts)
$400-600 for proper assembly and cam degree (DO NOT skimp here, tolerances are critical)
That gets you a bottom end.
$250 for gaskets
$200-400 for a cam
$300 for 42# injectors (a little more for flow-matched)
$1400-2500 for heavily ported heads (or ported aftermarket castings) valves, springs, retainers ...
$200 to have your manifold ported to match (more if you want something custom)
$400 for rockers, pushrods, guides and studs
Add little things like oil pump, timing chain, header bolts, and other surprises.....
Oh, then the tune.
Ok,go change now
In the end, you'll have a solid 396 that will last for years to come if you take care of it.
You could probably do it cheaper if you cut corners.
You could also end up rebuilding it next year when it breaks or wishing you did it right the first time.Last edited by James Montigny; 09-14-2008 at 09:39 AM.
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09-14-2008, 10:33 AM #4
BrianEsserGuest
Sad thing is thats about what i expected. lol
I'm only building this thing one time. So I am doing it right. If it takes me longer then so be it. I'm in no rush here.
Though I will be saving some on the tune as I am running a Megasquirt and will be tuning it myself and the machine work is cheaper around here.
Thanks for the info.. Thats exactly what I was looking for.
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09-14-2008, 03:43 PM #5
This is what I tell everyone, if you want an engine that lasts any length of time under all the stress we put on it. You dont skimp anywhere, or else you WILL be paying for it again in the end (literally).
A good built engine lasts just as long as a stock one, as long as its built tough enough for what you plan on doing.Nick
- 2003 SVT Cobra T56/4.6L - Pullied, Tuned, Full Intake/Exhaust, Stg3 Clutch (29k) - 483rwhp @14-15psi
- 2002 Ford F350 7.3L Powerstroke - Edge Evo II/33" BFG AT TAs/4" MBRP Turbo Back + Intake (164k)
- 1995 Pontiac Firehawk #224 (Chameleon) - Full Bolton/Cammed/Full Suspension (71k) - 12.75 @ 107.94
http://www.fquick.com/Fixxer777

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09-14-2008, 03:46 PM #6
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you can build a bad 355 on a budget. im taking that route as soon as i have descent funds coming in. stroking is too expensive for a college kid.
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