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  1. #21
    LTx Guru


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Name
    Fred
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula - SOLD
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    2,359

    Default

    Yes, you will get power to the pump to prime the system, then it will shut off if the engine does not start. You could verify by attaching a 12V source to the fuel pump prime connection. That bypasses the PASS-key/PCM permits and the stock fuel pump relay. Then you should have 12V to the tank continuously.

    http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg

    If you have 12V to the connector at the tank, and the pump isn't running, it's either a burned out pump, or the wiring from the connector to the pump. I've seen a couple people recently report problems with the in-tank connector melting at one of the pins.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  2. #22
    LTX Master


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Vehicle
    1994 Chevy Camaro z28
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    914

    Default

    Yea, I'll try that prime connector again. I tested it from there already, and all I hear is the relay click. But I will test it again for continued power. HOPEFULLY, its just a bad connection at the pump. Its kinda odd, but one night I pulled the car in the garage from a Cruise-in, the next morning I changed the fuel filter and the car wont start, and the pump wont prime.
    94' Z -383 LTx, AI TFS 215cc heads/C/I
    S60 rear
    Stepped Hedman Hustlers an a Monoblade TB

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