Please help, HORRIBLE screeching sound coming from supposedly rebuilt motor!

[cam94z28]

Also remember when installing the clutch bolts into the flywheel, these should only be torqued to 22 ft lbs (IIRC). Over tightening these bolts can cause you to have release problems when it's all together. 22ft lbs isn't a lot, but more than enough to keep it all together.

We definitely torqued the bolts to 22 ft lb. We got it back together, and cranked it up. Everything sounds good so far. It's missfiring with a random/multiple missfire code, but that could be anything. 1 year + old gas, coil/module that look original, etc...


But, there's an issue with the clutch/pedal. We put the slave cylinder back in, pushed the pedal a few times. At first it went to the floor, then I heard something pop, kept pressing it, and it started only going about halfway. It doesn't push down far enough to depress the clutch/start switch any more. Also, the tailshaft of the transmission was turning in neutral. I didn't try to stop it by hand. When shifting into a gear, and letting the clutch out, I don't really hear anything in the transmission. With the clutch depressed, it will shift into any gear without grinding, however.

The first time, with the clutch disc in backwards. It would push to the floor every single time, but had the normal clutch resistance I would expect with a cable driven clutch. I've never had a hydraulic clutch, so i'm not sure how it should feel. Now, it depresses with little resistance and just stops about half way.

Any ideas?

[Spartan7]

Make sure you've got the fork seated all the way on the throwout bearing, and the slave rod seated correctly on the fork. As far as the output shaft turning, do you have the driveshaft in and bolted to the rear end? If not, the output shaft will turn slowly in neutral due to internal friction without that resistance.

[cam94z28]

Make sure you've got the fork seated all the way on the throwout bearing, and the slave rod seated correctly on the fork. As far as the output shaft turning, do you have the driveshaft in and bolted to the rear end? If not, the output shaft will turn slowly in neutral due to internal friction without that resistance.

The fork appeared to have pushed in all the way. It made a solid clunk when we slid it back in. The driveshaft and yolk are out at the moment. The tailshaft is exposed.

Any idea why the pedal wont move far enough to push in the clutch/start switch?

[SS RRR]

Indeed. 22lbs it is and a thread locker is not requred.

[cam94z28]

Indeed. 22lbs it is and a thread locker is not requred.

Looks like either the arm was not engaged in the throwout bearing properly, or somehow the ball of the slave wasn't properly in the cup. Reseated it again, after losing and finding the tiny plastic cap that goes under the cup, and clutch feels good. There was definitely something solid in the way, half way through the pedal travel.