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Thread: No start issue.

  1. #1
    InActive Member


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    Default No start issue.

    So I had an issue with the car dying while decellerating before it was completely warmed up. It was leading me to believe it was idle air control valve related, so I decided to spray some carb cleaner down into the needle while it was still attached to the throttle body. Now I cannot get it to start. It started very briefly the first time but died after a couple seconds. Could this be related to me soaking the control valve without taking it off the car,making it worse than before? I'm hoping I did not ruin it.

  2. #2
    The FABRICATOR!


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    Yea it might be gummed up now. Take it out and clean it well and give it another shot.
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
    Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!

  3. #3
    Long Live the Opti


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    Default

    have you tried using the throttle to get it started/keep it running at all, or is it COMPLETELY a no start?

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    Default

    Even with throttle it wont start up. It did start up after I unhooked the battery for 10 seconds earlier and was hunting for idle until it warmed up. Then when I had came back out a little over an hour later is when it would not start at all. So im assuming the gunk that was softened up by the carb cleaner had hardened back up by then and is causing the issue considering I did nothing else to the car.

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    Default

    I'm at work at the moment, but when I get off I'm gonna try unhooking the battery again and see if it will start right back up like it did before. Does that make any sense that the idle air valve isnt adjusting correctly, but will momentarily when memory is lost from unhooking the battery?

  6. #6
    The FABRICATOR!


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    Another thing to check is that the rubber intake elbow isnt torn or folded inside the throttle body.
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
    Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!

  7. #7
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    Default

    Okay. I'll give it a check also. Hopefully it is something fairly simple.

  8. #8
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    Okay sorry I havent responded here in a few days. I've been at the end of my rope with this thing. I got the IAC changed out, started up first crank and ran just fine. So I shut it down and hop in the truck so I can have someone drive one of my vehicles back to my house. I get back to the car and its back to just cranking. Taking a quick look at the coil and the icm, they appeared to be fairly old, possibly even factory units. So I take both off and go down to the parts store to test them. The icm passed the test 3 of the 3 times I tested it. The coil had consistent readings on all 4 prongs. I'm going to assume that its not the opti that is bad. The owner before me had put one in about 2 years ago. I havent pulled a plug wire yet to check for no spark, but I'm pretty certain its not getting any. So my question is, is is possible that the icm can test good at the parts store, but actually be bad? It seems to me that the car is starting and running fine in the mornings before it gets really hot out, and once its been driven and gotten everything good and hot, it wont run. This makes me think its the icm or the coil breaking down once its up to temperature. Does anybody else have any suggestions?

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