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Thread: Everything needed or 9 inch swap
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06-19-2013, 03:32 PM #31"The Rock"
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06-20-2013, 12:23 PM #32LTx Guru
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Mark Williams has a good guide to taking measurements for driveshafts. You have to be careful with how the dimension for the front yoke projection and the distance between the U-joints is split. If you only look at the total length, you can end up with a yoke that is too long or too short.
http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshaftOrdering.aspx
The yoke is specific to the model of the trans you are using.... not only the number of splines and diameter, but the engagement length. If you are still using a 4L60E, the yoke length should match the stock yoke length. Then the distance between the splines is the variable dimension, based on the configuration and geometry of the rear axle assembly.
You also have to make sure you have enough clearance on the slider/yoke. With a stock driveshaft, they typically provide 1/2" clearance - the distance the slider can move forward on the trans output shaft, before it bottoms out. That measurement is taken by supporting the vehicle at normal ride height, unbolting the u-bolts that hold the rear u-joint in the pinion yoke, and measuring how far the driveshaft can be moved forward before it stops. With higher HP applications, you want more clearance. I've used 0.75" to 1.00" clearance. Remember, with a negative pinion angle, as the pinion shaft moves upward in response to the torque at the wheels, the slider moves forward into the tailshaft housing. You don't want it bottoming out on the output shaft.
The other thing to keep in mind with the 9-inch rear.... the centerline of the pinion shaft sits about 3/4" lower than the shaft on the 10-bolt or 12-bolt. And the 9-inch sometimes has the centerline of the pinion shaft offset to one side. Pinion angle becomes very important with regard to preventing vibrations and excessive wear on the u-joints.
All that said, I've got a Mark Williams 3" chrome moly shaft, solid 1350 u-joints, that I no longer need, but it's got a TH400 billet yoke. It should be usable if you replace the yoke. After you take you measurements, I'll see if it's a possible match.SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.
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06-20-2013, 09:50 PM #33InActive Member
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Ok thank you, this weekend when I pull the rear out ill measure before it comes out
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
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06-20-2013, 10:08 PM #34The FABRICATOR!
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Chris
1985 Monte Carlo SS
Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!
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06-20-2013, 10:11 PM #35
Im still hoping to use stock shaft. My 9 inch chunk is a gonna be 31 spline spool. 3.50 gear. Strange daytona pinion support and quick performance housing and 1350 yoke 4 inches long and with the daytona support pushing an extra 1/4 inch im hoping to make it all work we will see in the next few weeks as I still wait on my housing to come in
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2Dustin Dillow-Tuned by Dillow's Tuning Solutions
95 Firebird Formula Cam, Bolt Ons, QP 9 Inch 3.50 Gear, Full UMI Rear Suspension, 3700lbs
7.86 at 86.20 mph 1.67 60ft, 7.16 at 99 mph 1.51 60 ft on .063 jet NX Shark Nozzle Single Fogger
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