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Thread: Build Thread: 95 Z28 Convertible
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04-13-2013, 05:02 AM #21
Epoxy, cereal box cardboard, sandpaper, vinyl, old credit card, and headliner adhesive.
Use the epoxy and cardboard on the bottom side to hold it together where it's cracked. Then epoxy 'bondo' the topside and sand smooth. Cut vinyl to length of pad. Spray headliner adhesive on and stick the vinyl to it, using a credit card to get the bubbles out. Then trim the vinyl edges, cut out defrost and it'll look great. Did it to mine years ago. Looks so much better than a cracked up dash pad.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ryan Stout For This Post:
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04-13-2013, 05:39 AM #22
I would re-route the front brake lines while everything is out of the way. Run the passenger side front brake line along the firewall and down the fender to the caliper. The reasoning for doing this, is that in the future should you decide to drop the engine/k-member out the bottom, you won't have to disconnect the brake line, and then re-bleed the system. The stock setup runs the brake line along the steering and under the engine.
'94 coupe, 10.15 at 133.65 414" LT1, 4500 stall, n/a, pump gas, mufflers, street trim
'15 Z/28, Red Hot, AC, Autocross beast
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04-13-2013, 09:15 AM #23
Lurker
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Jim
94 Z28, M6-RPM Stage 3,Spec 3,Forged 383,4-bolt,12.8,LE2,Eagle 6"H beam,306 for now,42lb injectors,58 BBK, Pacesetter,BMR SFC,LCA,Panhard,k-member,spohnTA and loop
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04-15-2013, 01:42 AM #24
I'll probably give this a go sometime this week and post pics of what I end up with. Thanks.
That's genius! I also planned on doing the fuel line relocation and wire tuck to clean up the engine bay a bunch while it's all apart.
Finished getting my wiring out of the doors, now I need to get the HVAC out to be able to get to the rest of the wiring.
Also posted a sale thread: Aluminum door panels and manual mirrors'94 Medium Patriot Red Metallic z28 M6, 3.42
!AC, !AIR, !Cat, 98+ Front Brake Swap
'95 White Vert - New project

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