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  1. #1
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    Default best guideplates for 5/16" pushrod lt1

    ive been looking around for a little bit tonight and have run across quiet a bit of issues or opinions from others about certain guideplates, i need to know what will be my best route here are the links to the 2 i have narrowed it down to.

    Gm brand

    http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=14011051

    Comp brand

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4808-8/

    COST is always a factor but in some instances i want whats the Best since ive got so much time and money in this engine. thanks for the input guys.

  2. #2

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    The main point of guideplates is to align everything and keep it aligned. Isky adjustables are the best way to do this with stock heads. They are not cheap, but they work great. The GMPP ones I had wore because some were hardened and some were not. Plus they weren't all aligning right anyways. This can give you some bonus metal drifting around inside your motor. Comps may or may not line up correctly, the ones I had laying around did not. Some people say Trickflows will work, some claim they don't. Iskys will always line up right because you set them where they need to be. Nothing worse than screwing up the valve stem, roller tip, pushrod, having a rocker pop off...

  3. #3
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    Default

    I have had good luck with the hardened Trickflows as I am currently using them on my 383.

    I also did a 396 build using the Isky adjustables which also worked well. When using the Iskys you should number each guideplate and, once you have the correct alignment, weld the two halves together with a few tacks (like this):



    You should weld them together because if you don't you only have the compressive strength of the stud holding each half down.
    -Joe-
    95 T/A.
    Advanced Induction 383 - 10.81 @ 124.16, 1.43 60' Video of 10-second pass - 455whp/445wtq


  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RamAir95TA View Post
    I have had good luck with the hardened Trickflows as I am currently using them on my 383.

    I also did a 396 build using the Isky adjustables which also worked well. When using the Iskys you should number each guideplate and, once you have the correct alignment, weld the two halves together with a few tacks (like this):



    You should weld them together because if you don't you only have the compressive strength of the stud holding each half down.
    well the only thing is i dont have a Welder to use, i can spare the extra cash on something that will help the engine, ive done got a bit of cash in it so i dont want anything messing up, i have 5/16" pushrods and ive READ that the gmpp are really good but its hit and miss with the comp brand, i want any thatll work but work without something messing up. lemme know

  5. #5
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    Default

    Then go with the Trick Flows. There is a small degree of adjustability with them since the mounting hole is slightly larger than the stud.

    Trick Flow 30400623-8.
    -Joe-
    95 T/A.
    Advanced Induction 383 - 10.81 @ 124.16, 1.43 60' Video of 10-second pass - 455whp/445wtq


  6. #6

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    It's probably risky but I've run Isky's unwelded in my motors for years without them moving, although I tighten them down pretty good.... now I should probably go tack em, damn.
    Last edited by Bersaglieri; 10-22-2012 at 01:16 PM.

  7. #7
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    Tacking them together is just insurance, not necessary of course. Plus when you take them apart you have one guideplate per cylinder instead of 16 half guideplates that you have to realign.
    -Joe-
    95 T/A.
    Advanced Induction 383 - 10.81 @ 124.16, 1.43 60' Video of 10-second pass - 455whp/445wtq


  8. #8
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    Default

    Ive also used the trick flows on a couple different motors without issue.
    because jack stand racecar

  9. #9
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    Trickflows here... No problems..

  10. #10
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    Default

    thanks guys im going to check on the Trickflow ones, thanks for the Input ive needed guidance on this lol thanks.

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