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Thread: Windows...

  1. #1
    LTX Master


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    Default Windows...

    Has anyone figured out a way to fix these damn windows? I replaced the motors and switches a couple years ago and they are pretty much done already. They have been slow and stalled off and on for a while now. I need my weatherstripping replaced and I refuse to spend the money on that until I can get these windows fixed and reliable. Can anyone help me out?
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  2. #2
    LTX Master


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    BTW, another option I am almost 100% considering is just swapping to crank windows, so if anyone has a write-up for that please let me know, i've been searching with no luck so far.
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  3. #3
    "The Rock"


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    About 11 years ago when I worked at the body shop, my boss had a grand national that had the same issue. However the kit he got was from a company that refurbished and rebuilt the stronger window motors from the old school caddys and big body GMs.

    Yes I know my info does not help you much, however there is probably the same fix for us F-body guys, now.... just gotta find that company.


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  4. #4
    my 3 little angels


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    ive only done it once but my new motor came from napa for like $40 with a lifetime warranty,,what brand parts did you use?

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  5. #5
    LTX Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by popo8 View Post
    About 11 years ago when I worked at the body shop, my boss had a grand national that had the same issue. However the kit he got was from a company that refurbished and rebuilt the stronger window motors from the old school caddys and big body GMs.

    Yes I know my info does not help you much, however there is probably the same fix for us F-body guys, now.... just gotta find that company.
    I did actually find a kit that's supposed to fix the GM's poor wiring (which is apparently the main cause) but I really don't want to go to all that trouble to fix it. That's why I'm leaning towards just converting to crank windows since I'm not very good with wiring.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tarheel'Z' View Post
    ive only done it once but my new motor came from napa for like $40 with a lifetime warranty,,what brand parts did you use?
    I forget the brand, but it wasn't NAPA. Hell, even if I had a lifetime warranty, I would still be looking to fix it just for the simple fact that it's kind of a pain to keep replacing the motors.
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  6. #6
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    I bought some cheap $25 window motors off ebay. They were built in the USA though, and did come with a lifetime warranty. One of them (I replaced both windows in 1 F-body, then 1 on my Z, and two more on a 3rd F-body I later got) in my 3rd F-body (the Formula in my sig) eventually went bad. I ended up just getting another $25 cheepo off ebay and didn't even bother trying to find the paperwork for the warrenty. So far all the others have worked well, and I DD the Formula.

    Heres a link to a similar one on ebay> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-...Q5fAccessories


    FWIW though, if you want a quality one that will last longer and you don't have to worry about going out as often I would reccomend getting a more top notch window motor. The factory GM ones are junk, but there are others that are better.

    Something else you might be interested in is this> http://www.autotrix.net/Product-Driv...own-Kit_8.aspx
    Never tried it personally, but I have seen videos of people who have and it looks pretty sweet!
    1995 Z28 - disfunctional now, perhaps insane after its "treatment"
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  7. #7
    LTX Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by CALL911 View Post
    I bought some cheap $25 window motors off ebay. They were built in the USA though, and did come with a lifetime warranty. One of them (I replaced both windows in 1 F-body, then 1 on my Z, and two more on a 3rd F-body I later got) in my 3rd F-body (the Formula in my sig) eventually went bad. I ended up just getting another $25 cheepo off ebay and didn't even bother trying to find the paperwork for the warrenty. So far all the others have worked well, and I DD the Formula.

    Heres a link to a similar one on ebay> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-...Q5fAccessories


    FWIW though, if you want a quality one that will last longer and you don't have to worry about going out as often I would reccomend getting a more top notch window motor. The factory GM ones are junk, but there are others that are better.

    Something else you might be interested in is this> http://www.autotrix.net/Product-Driv...own-Kit_8.aspx


    Never tried it personally, but I have seen videos of people who have and it looks pretty sweet!
    The link seems like what I am looking for, only problem is, the whole kit for my car, both windows, is $235... at that price, it better be the last time I have to take my door panels off lol. Thanks for the link, I'll look into it more
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  8. #8
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    Going to crank windows isn't a bad idea but if you're worried about race weight at all, the manual stuff actually weighs a bit more.



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    94 Z M6 304hp/336tq
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  9. #9
    my 3 little angels


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    Quote Originally Posted by 95z28man View Post

    I forget the brand, but it wasn't NAPA. Hell, even if I had a lifetime warranty, I would still be looking to fix it just for the simple fact that it's kind of a pain to keep replacing the motors.

    guess ive been lucky, ive only changed one in 14 yrs,,but for 40 bucks and a 1 to 1.5 hr job it seems like a easy decision to me but sounds like your situation has been a little different

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  10. #10
    LTX Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by YZF View Post
    Going to crank windows isn't a bad idea but if you're worried about race weight at all, the manual stuff actually weighs a bit more.
    I'm not too concerned about that, but I may give the power windows one more chance if I can justify buying this kit.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tarheel'Z' View Post
    guess ive been lucky, ive only changed one in 14 yrs,,but for 40 bucks and a 1 to 1.5 hr job it seems like a easy decision to me but sounds like your situation has been a little different
    A couple years ago I installed brand new motors and switches on both sides. The job was kind of a pain with just dumb things like fasteners not holding pieces of my door panel on anymore, small things like that were just pissing me off lol. I just don't want to go to through it again, until I'm sure I have a reliable setup in there. The first thing I have to do is replace ALL my weatherstripping though, which is expensive as hell I found out (I tried to fix it using all the cheap methods I found online, but it's just completely shot). Then and only then, will I fork out the cash to fix the windows, and then have them tinted. I just can't put all that money and time into fixing and tinting windows, until I know that no water will leak in and screw things up. And believe me, it's bad... I can't even wash my car anymore until the weatherstripping is replaced.
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

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