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  1. #1
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    Default What to replace when rebuilding?

    What do you guys recommend replacing when you rebuild a motor?
    I plan on replacing:
    ICM
    Coil
    Water pump
    Opti
    All gaskets
    Oil pump
    Lifters
    All rod/main/cam bearings
    Freeze/galley plugs

    Is there anything I am missing???

  2. #2
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    Unhappy

    Replace what you are comfortable affording.

    But if it's not broken, why fix it? There's nothing in your list that is mandatory (aside from freeze plugs and bearings) to replace during a rebuild.

    Not to mention you don't say if this is a performance rebuild, stock, what the motor will be used for, mileage on the current parts, etc.
    -Joe-
    95 T/A.
    Advanced Induction 383 - 10.81 @ 124.16, 1.43 60' Video of 10-second pass - 455whp/445wtq


  3. #3
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    Default

    ARP main/rod bolts, rings, cam, timing set, oil pump drive and having the heads redone. Block prep and rods resized.
    '89 Jaguar XJS w/'93 z/28 eng. & trans. 12.82 @ 104 1.74 60' 3900#

  4. #4
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    Default

    just a quick glance and your list looks a lot like mine. whether its a performance build or not you can do a lot of things to improve the motor and make it more reliable. i planned on:

    catch can
    wrapping my headers
    over the valve cover spark plug wires
    new o2's and extensions
    new gatorback belt
    replace any sensors i haven't replaced recently

    all that is to go along with what you have on your list for the most part. as well as painting a lot of things while its all apart just to clean it up

    1995 Z28 l bolt-ons l 315's l A4-M6 swap


  5. #5
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    Default

    Just want to add my personal opinion here...

    Wrapping your headers is ugly and dangerous. They can soak up oil (becoming a fire hazard) and seriously promote corrosion, stainless, coated, or not. Coated or uncoated is far better than wrapping. If you're worried about burning plug boots, use fire sleeves.

    Oh, forgot about the rings too...gonna have to replace them as well.
    -Joe-
    95 T/A.
    Advanced Induction 383 - 10.81 @ 124.16, 1.43 60' Video of 10-second pass - 455whp/445wtq


  6. #6
    >$25K Build Club Ambassador


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    Brett
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    Default

    ^ I wrapped my headers to avoid all the HUGE amount of heat buildup in the engine bay. I could have pulled them off the motor and had them coated, but I just didn't feel like yanking them off while the motor was out.

    We'll see how it does. If I don't like it, I guess they'll have to come out and get coated...
    '97 Z28...Sleeper 648 RWHP 585 TQ - Speed INC Tuned! 383, F1A, blah blah

    Current Project: 1927 Model T Roadster - LTX/M6 Powerplant!
    Build Thread: http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...oadster-Build!

  7. #7
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    Brenda
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RamAir95TA View Post
    Just want to add my personal opinion here...

    Wrapping your headers is ugly and dangerous. They can soak up oil (becoming a fire hazard) and seriously promote corrosion, stainless, coated, or not. Coated or uncoated is far better than wrapping. If you're worried about burning plug boots, use fire sleeves.

    Oh, forgot about the rings too...gonna have to replace them as well.
    this is exactly what i've heard.
    full metal jackets are awesome for the boots

  8. #8
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    Default

    Ok the motor will be mostly stock for now with a few bolt-ons. The motor has 145k on it. I have pulled the motor since i spun a rod bearing. My cylinders looked good so do you think it would be alright to just hone them a little and put new rings on the pistons or should i just bore it and replace the pistons? I figure with this many miles i should probably replace anything that could go bad just to make it more reliable for in the future.

  9. #9
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    Default

    With those amount of miles, I would have the cylinders bored anyway. You should have it checked by a machine shop and let them determine if it needs to be bored.

    I would bore it, replace the pistons with matching hypereutectic replacements (for the right bore size), recondition the stock rods and stock crank, use a good 7/16" bolt for the rods, and call it a day. That will give you solid reliability.
    -Joe-
    95 T/A.
    Advanced Induction 383 - 10.81 @ 124.16, 1.43 60' Video of 10-second pass - 455whp/445wtq


  10. #10
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    Default

    How bout just replacing the stock rods with a forged i beam only 100 more than arp rod bolts... and maybe forged pistons since a set of speed pros arent much more than hypereutectic.

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