Have spark and fuel psi. No start.

[IronOutlaw]

Ok the car was getting hard to crank and then started idling weird before dying. I pulled into my driveway and it died and hasn't started back.

I've checked fuel psi, icm, coil, and I checked the injectors with my test light and they are getting ground for firing.

I pulled the water pump and it was leaking out of the weep hole and the opti had a rotor screw fell out. I replaced it with Chandler motorsports opti. I'm getting good spark at every plug.

I'm 100% sure the plugwires are in the right order. I removed the opti twice to make sure it's on correct and it is. The car is acting like the timing is way off. I sprayed some starter fluid in the intake and it just blew it back out. I'm getting some backfiring through the exhaust.

Motors only supposed to have about 70-80000 miles on it, but I'm almost wondering if it jumped time. Only thing I can figure now is bad PCM or jumped time. I'm not getting an ses light and have Bo way to scan the car at my house. I need to get a aldl cable but funds are tight right now.

Any suggestions? I'm about to run outta things to check.

Oh yeah, I already checked all fuses and grounds.

[QC97Z]

I don't think it can "jump" time. That could happen on vehicles with timing belts, but we have a timing chain on the LTX. It is either working, or it's broken and not working. Have you pulled a valve cover to make sure the valvetrain is moving while you crank it? or do a compression test? If you don't pull a cover and do a compression test, you'll find at least one cylinder has horrible compression issues (valve stuck open).
If your timing chain is broken...you'll be way out of time and no valvetrain movement.

[IronOutlaw]

Actually a chain stretches just like a belt. If it gets loose enough it can jump a tooth when you cut the car off. This happend to my dads van and we almost never figured out what was wrong with it. We rotated the plug wires around one spot and limped home to replace the timing set.

I'm wondering if the rotor in the opti could be off 180*. Or is it keyed? I'm gonna take apart my old opti and see if the rotor is keyed.

[tleed]

if u have a scan tool u can turn the engine over and look to see if it shows rpm if not the opti is bad just because u have spark does not maen the opti is working if the scanner communicates with the pcm its not the pcm hope this helps

[IronOutlaw]

Ok made some progress. Apparently there's 2 slots for the opti to go into the camshaft. It was 180 off and I got that straightened out. (I did not force the opti on at anytime, it just clicked into place)

After that the car is all but cranking. I can turn it over and let off the key and it will try to crank and turn over for about 3 seconds really slow. Every now and then it will let off a LOUD backfire out the exhaust and you can see a flame shoot out the pipe.

I may have flooded the car and am letting I sit for a while before I try to crank it again

I have tuner pro on my laptop but no cable. I'm gonna order a cable tomorrow and see what going on when It comes in if I don't have it fixed by then.

I guess there is a possibility of a bad opti. It's a Chandler unit off ls1tech.

[SYNTAX]

Sorry for the old bump. But, I ran into the same problem. Have plenty of fuel, close to completely flooding good spark. But for some reason only shutters a few times a sec after I try starting. It will put and put for a while but never fully catch and start. Is it the opti?

[BIGT94z]

u sure the coil is good? i once had spark and it somehow ended up being the coil. did the same symptoms are mentioned above

[95ImpySS]

Theres actually three spot that the dowel pin can fit in. Only one is correct.

Try this: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

Also are the injectors pulsing? They should have 12v+ when KOEO

[SYNTAX]

impy you guessed right, I surely thought the pin would only have fit in the one slot on the opti. it was 120* off... rookie mistake, fixed and waiting for the opti i ordered last night. lol