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Thread: Welp, need a clutch
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08-05-2010, 09:20 AM #11>$25K Build Club Ambassador
- Status
- Offline
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Name
- Brett
- Vehicle
- 1997 Camaro Z28, 1927 LTX Ford Roadster
- Location
- East Moline, IL
- Posts
- 1,350

I didn't even know that there was such a thing as a 2+, 3+ etc. Sounds like the spec is a sweet deal.
'97 Z28...Sleeper
648 RWHP 585 TQ - Speed INC Tuned! 383, F1A, blah blah
Current Project: 1927 Model T Roadster - LTX/M6 Powerplant!
Build Thread: http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...oadster-Build!
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08-05-2010, 09:26 PM #12
well, can't get just a pressure plate from autozone, nor anywhere else that I've found except for clutchnet, but thiers is expensive, and the kit is $220 from zone and a mcleod disc is just shy of 200, so it would only be about 10 bucks cheaper than getting a spec2. Also I've seen where people have not gotton much mileage out of a dual friction disc where one of the materials is organic. I think I'm leaning towards the spec 2/2+. Thanks for all the input guys.
1995 Formy M6 T-top LS1 WS6 air box w/LG G2 lid, LE 226/230 cam, cleaned up stock heads, 1.6 RR's, SLP pp, SPEC stage 3+ disc, LPP longtubes, Magnaflow, t/a cover, 3.73's, J&M LCA's, UMI 3pt SFC's. 12.8 @ 110 on a 2.00 60'
3 days after going back together untuned.
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08-09-2010, 09:50 PM #13
anyone ever use a clutch with a cerametallic disc, ceramic/metallic compound? Seems like it's a middleground between the highend organics/kevlar discs and the ceramic puck discs. I've read mixed reviews on the kevlar discs, and I don't think an organic one will hold up long enough. I don't think the car is going to see enough track time to justify a ceramic puck clutch, this cerametallic stuff sounds like what I'm looking for, what do you guys think?
1995 Formy M6 T-top LS1 WS6 air box w/LG G2 lid, LE 226/230 cam, cleaned up stock heads, 1.6 RR's, SLP pp, SPEC stage 3+ disc, LPP longtubes, Magnaflow, t/a cover, 3.73's, J&M LCA's, UMI 3pt SFC's. 12.8 @ 110 on a 2.00 60'
3 days after going back together untuned.
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