Become a ltxtech.com member, Click here to register!

Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 73
  1. #1
    10 Second N/A Club


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Name
    Josh
    Vehicle
    96 Z28
    Location
    Holden, MO (KC)
    Posts
    2,850

    Default LS steering shaft *Write Up*

    Let me start this out by crediting “The Merv” and “96lt1m6” on LS1Tech for providing the information to do this. I figured I’d do a step by step write up so everyone can see just how simple this is. The LT1 cars came with a “rag joint” which is made of rubber and breaks down over time. This process is speed up with the installation of headers which bring extreme heat to the rubber. The result is loose or sloppy feeling steering due to the flex in the deteriorated rubber joint. LS1 cars use u-joint style ends and can be easily modified to fit LT1 cars. An added benefit of the smaller u-joint is additional room for header clearance.

    First what you’ll need:

    -Steering shaft from an LS1 car
    -11mm or7/16” socket or wrench to remove the steering shaft
    -Hammer and a punch or similar object (air hammer if you’re spoiled)
    -Small grinding tool (Dremel or metal grinding bit)
    -Access to a welder (any exhaust shop should help you out if you don’t have one)
    -A bench vise comes in very handy but isn’t required

    Tools..jpg

    Start by removing the bolts from the stock steering shaft. There is one at the top and one at the bottom. Then remove the shaft from the car, it may take some mild persuasion if it’s never been off!

    Start..jpg


    Once it’s out set it next to the LS shaft and you can see exactly what you have to do. The ends of the LS shaft are slightly off compared to the LT one.

    Compare..jpg


    The LS shaft has an end that is splined and can be removed and re-indexed to match your LT shaft. If this isn’t done the steering wheel would be off in the car. You will need to grind off the area where the factory crimped the splined shaft so it can be removed.

    Grind..jpg


    Once you’ve ground off the factory crimp you must separate the two pieces. I used a bench vice and an air hammer. After you’ve separated them lay the pieces next to your LT shaft so you can see where you need to index the splines. I put a screwdriver through the fixed ends to aid in keeping the shafts aligned. You can see the LT shaft is not a perfect 90 degrees.

    Align..jpg
    Index..jpg




    Once you’ve re-indexed the u-joint end you’ll need to press it back onto the shaft. I used the bench vice, a block of wood, and a hammer. Make sure to put it back in the same spot it was in when you removed it (don’t hit it on too far).

    Next clean off some spots on the splined area and put a few tack welds on to hold the two pieces together. This does the same thing as the factory crimp you ground off earlier.
    Tack..jpg


    Congratulations now install your new LS steering shaft in your car and enjoy more header clearance and tighter steering!
    Finished..jpg



    Last edited by 96LT1355Z28; 09-03-2013 at 07:58 PM.
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.34 @ 134 1.57 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to 96LT1355Z28 For This Post:


  3. #2
    Xtreme Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    1,721

    Default

    damn i did not get any credit for this
    about time someone did a write up w/pics. i have done a few but i never seem to take pics when i am working(don't think of it ) good job bro.however, what is the 9/16 wrench or socket for? the bolts that hold the shaft on are 7/16

    when completed it is cleaner and less bulky than the ragjoint eliminator!


    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt...liminator.html

    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt...liminator.html
    Last edited by 96lt1m6; 04-01-2009 at 11:55 AM.

  4. #3
    Bastardized LT1 Car


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lynchburg, Va
    Posts
    1,804

    Default

    haha i JUST bought one of these and had planned on doing a write up i always use a 11mm socket lol

    :Jon:
    94 Z28 - Turbo LQ4 Build - T56 - Moser 9"
    06 Tundra DD - Michelin Go Fast tires
    99 WS6 T/A - 3800 Stall - 3.73 Gears
    07 Hayabusa - blacked out - brocks/hindle exhaust - sprocketed - PCIII - lowered & stretehed
    09 Yamaha R6 - Sold

  5. #4
    10 Second N/A Club


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Name
    Josh
    Vehicle
    96 Z28
    Location
    Holden, MO (KC)
    Posts
    2,850

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 96lt1m6 View Post
    what is the 9/16 wrench or socket for? the bolts that hold the shaft on are 7/16
    Changed, I couldn't remember what I used! I took pics and then did the write up a few days later!
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.34 @ 134 1.57 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  6. #5

    Default

    if i remember i think rudy was the first one that did that
    93 engine, 94 intake, 3.42 gears soon,TB 52mm, 1.6 RRT, ram air, LCA, panhard bar, S10 high stall, transgo shift kit, BBK shortys, no cat, 160 temp, rear bilstein stocks, rear ls1 springs, ture duals with magnaflows,BFT transmission cooler, 99 ls1 driveshaft,subfame connectors, soon a tune and Chevron with techron and i am stock

  7. #6

    Default

    I just finnished this project Friday, I love the results Followed the write-up to the letter Thanks guys.

  8. #7
    LTx Mod, Founding Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Saugus, MA
    Posts
    3,450

    Default

    Good post, might actually get around to do this one this winter. Sounds like its had good results, and is really a GREAT idea.
    Nick

    - 2003 SVT Cobra T56/4.6L - Pullied, Tuned, Full Intake/Exhaust, Stg3 Clutch (29k) - 483rwhp @14-15psi
    - 2002 Ford F350 7.3L Powerstroke - Edge Evo II/33" BFG AT TAs/4" MBRP Turbo Back + Intake (164k)
    - 1995 Pontiac Firehawk #224 (Chameleon) - Full Bolton/Cammed/Full Suspension (71k) - 12.75 @ 107.94
    http://www.fquick.com/Fixxer777

  9. #8
    Xtreme Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    1,721

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fixxer99TA View Post
    Good post, might actually get around to do this one this winter. Sounds like its had good results, and is really a GREAT idea.
    oh you bet it is, since i did this last year my car has much stronger/tighter steering its a cleaner approach than the ragjoint elim kit

  10. #9
    11 Second Club


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    385

    Default

    I just picked up an LS1 steering shaft and was getting ready to start grinding when I thought of something....

    I have an aftermarket steering wheel, therefore no longer have an airbag clock spring...is there any reason why I couldn't install the LS1 shaft as-is, then simply remove my steering wheel and adaper and re-clock it so the steering wheel sits strait? Is there any reason I shouldn't do it that way?
    Last edited by Nocturnal Z; 02-09-2010 at 03:20 PM.

    LTxShootout Event Coordinator
    2009 LTxShootout Extreme Street N/A winner
    GMHTP feature "Show & Go" April 2013

  11. #10
    Xtreme Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    1,721

    Default

    Should not make much of a difference for your situation however if it were mine i would still mod the shaft!

Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •