Please help with these engine codes

hey guys so just got my 12 pin connector to scan these codes. i used gary's scan 9495 program to get these.

16: Distributor Ignition System (low res pulse)
26: Evap Emission (EVAP) canister purge solenoid valve circuit
32: EGR
48: Mass airflow (MAF) sensor circuit.

ok so i erased the codes and immediately the EVAP code came back on, but the other ones didnt come back right away.
the car doesnt seem to be running bad, runs fine to me, at least i think so. any advice you guys can give me the codes? specifically the evap system, i dont no much about that system. i can just tune out the egr. how can i address the low res pulse and maf code to see if they need replaced? this car is bone stock btw, has the cat and the EGR and AIR still on it.

thanks.
Chaz

16 is usually dead opti, delete evap and egr, check maf wires

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if its a dead opti then how is it running fine? runs fine cold, hot, drove it for two hours straight. you name it. besides deleting the evap system in a tune how would i go about actually fixing that issue? anybody no what code indicates about the evap system? checked the MAF wires, looked good. on the real time scan data the MAF was reading numbers but i dont no what they mean. lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChazWhiteZ28-

if its a dead opti then how is it running fine? runs fine cold, hot, drove it for two hours straight. you name it. besides deleting the evap system in a tune how would i go about actually fixing that issue? anybody no what code indicates about the evap system? checked the MAF wires, looked good. on the real time scan data the MAF was reading numbers but i dont no what they mean. lol

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Couldve been an existing code from the past, didnt u just buy this car?

Evap just delete in tune, take the solenoid off the intake and throw far away. I never tried to fix evap system, sorry

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If the engine was running, DTC 16 was a "stored" code. If it's "active" the PCM shuts down the fuel system. Not unusual to see this as a stored code.

DTC 26 indicates an electrical problem with the EVAP purge solenoid on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Make sure the connector is on tight. Measure the resistance of solenoid... I think it should be around 20-30 ohms. If all else fails, pull the harness connector of and put a 2000 ohm resistor between the pins of the connector. EVAP doesn't hurt performance, actually uses a bit of fuel that would otherwise be wasted, and minimizes fuel odor at the rear of the car.

DTC 32 sets when the PCM cycles the EGR valve and doesn't see the expected change in the MAP sensor reading. Hard to eliminate except thru programming.

DTC 48 sets if the MAF is disconnected, it loses 12V power on the pink wire, or the sensor fails. Since it cleared, don't worry about it.

ok cool guys thanks, i have stevo's eehack software, ill just use his free robot tune to tune out the egr and evap and see where that takes me, only code that came back was the evap when i cleared the codes so hopefully all will be well, and yes Tubby i did just buy the car but i was aware the cel was on but i didnt pay a whole bunch for it so i wasnt butthurt about the car the with code on because i knew all the great guys on this forum would help with any issues. :). also, again ive never dealt with the evap, can i just tune it and leave the solenoid and stuff still plugged in? a newb question but i have to ask.

Thanks, Chaz

If you tune out EVAP, you could leave everything in place, although I would put a vacuum cap on the vacuum nipple on the throttle body. Prevents a vacuum leak, when the plastic line cracks, which they all eventually do. As noted above, you may get some fuel smell at the rear of the car.

http://shbox.com/1/1995_evap.jpg

thanks, couldnt flash the bin for some reason, ran the stability check and it came out good to flash. i tried to flash the new bin from steveo but it threw an error. dont no why.
on a side note, after i tried all this i turned the car on and ran it up to temp no check engine light came on. i ran it for awhile then i turned it off. i immediately tried to start it back and it HATED it, i cranked the key and it went; click......................click.................. .....click................(the dots are moments of no action) then boom it started up. immediately dtc 16, and 26 came on the eehack software. wtf?

bump, the symptoms with the delayed start after being ran to temp reminds of an icm problem, but there is no code for that (or is there a dtc at all for the icm?) and why did dtc 16 come back on but the car was running? idk point me in the right direction?

Thanks, Chaz

In your click...... description, do you mean the starter relay clicked (or possibly the starter solenoid???) but the starter never engaged and cranked the engine? Or did the starter crank the engine, but it just didn't start? I didn't understand what you were describing, so I didn't respond. DTC 16 couldn't set if it was not cranking at all, could set if it cranked for an extended period but didn't start.

DTC 41 and 42 relate to the ICM.

ok the dots are complete silence, meaning nothing is happening, no sounds, no nothing. lol the click is just the car barley hitting meaning trying to turn over, so more like a;
turn...........................turn............... ...........turn....................boom car started. havent tried to recreate it since but i may try to post a video up, anyone no how to do that? when i turned it off while it was still connected to eehack after the car had been running awhile there where no codes. thats when i tried to start it right after i turned it off. that is when this situation happened (the car is still connected to eehack, thats how i saw the codes come on) it acted like the thing was completely dead trying to start but thats not the case, plenty of voltage. anyways right after the car started thats when the evap code and 16 came on. the 16 MAY have come on right before it finally started but it was right when it started.

thanks,
Chaz

Guess I'm sort of thick... Still don't understand it... "the click is just car barley hitting meaning trying to turn over". Is the starter cranking the engine, or isn't it?

yes that "click" or "turn" is the engine turning over like 1 revolution. I'm gonna try to replicate it when I get home from work today.
sorry its just a real hard occurrence to explain through here. lol

-Chaz

Sounds like a weak battery, worn starter or corroded battery cables. What voltage does the dash gauge indicate when the starter is struggling, one rotation at a time?

ok here are some links to youtube, the battery is about 8 months old, and the starter isnt that old. if the car is cold it starts right up. only after being ran for awhile does it seem to do this. and the volts appear to drop to zero on the dash when this happens...the second video is a little better video of what is happening. for some reason the check engine light never came on after it was running for awhile nor did it come after it i started it back up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yUULCVYxIU


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILAAA6YgPOY

-Chaz

Your volts read fine when the engine is running, but with the engine off, key on, they're low - reading well into the red. When it gets cold, a weak battery will be made weaker. Either your battery is dead/dying or the cables to it are wonky. Yes, I see that you bought it 8 months ago but that doesn't mean it isn't bad. Check the voltage at the battery when its disconnected.

the voltage disconnected should be around 12.5-.9. Running you should see about 14.5 at the battery

your dash gauge shows battery voltage low but charging/running voltage looks good

your battery is the problem. you can throw a charge on it to see if the volt meter does not go into red when starting...

if you do the start, shut off thing again but with a donor car jumping you and it starts fine multiple times...another indication your battery is done