Dan's Money Pit NYTRDR

Hey guys and gals, thought I'd throw this on here from another forum.

So, some history on the car. The car came from Florida in 2007. According to the PO, the guy was in in 60s. It had A HUGE service history from when it was down in Florida. The car is 99% rust free :) It came to Michigan with around 85k miles in 2007. It is at approximately 107k now. The PO, who was in his mid 20s, put those ugly ass silver shitty quality emblems you see on the car. I put the regular black ones on the sides, and am looking for a custom one for the back. It also had COMPLETE blackout tail lights. I just replaced them yesterday. All the indicators are blacked out too, I'm debating if i want to remove the tint. Brake Fluid supposedly removes it.
In case you are wondering, "NYTRDR" is like rider of the night.. I like to drive a lot at night. Michigan roads are always busy during the day, and I find some people annoying :D So it's nice going out at 2 am, and enjoying the fresh air and smell of burning rubber.

This is my first car, I love it to death, but sometimes I hate it.. LT1 problems right..?

So what is wrong with the car! I had some cooling problems this past september. When I bought the car, the Water pump started to leak, so it was replaced. So the water pump was replaced in April 2014. In May of 2014, I overheated on my way home from a Meet N' Greet. The radiator cap was shot, and sucked in a shitload of air. So, I installed a manual fan switch, new cap and it ran good. All great all summer, until September 2014. I burned a spark plug wire on my way home, so I went OTVC. All groovy for a week or so. Then I started over heating AGAIN. Did what I should have done when I did the water pump.. replace the thermostat. I first checked it, it would barely open, so ordered a SLP 160. After that was installed, it ran nice, real nice. It was around late October when I started overheating again. Coolant was coming out of the radiator, and the overflow. I decided to pull the radiator out. It was from 99, so I figured it should be replaced. When I did the water pump the first time, the coolant was a brownish yellow color, wasn't healthy at all. I figured the PO had leaks, and put some stop leak shit in it. The radiator was clogged, on the driver side. So +1 for replacement.
Well, I get the radiator installed, super excited to get the car running again. I pour the coolant in the radiator and BAM, leaking out the water pump. I was so puzzled, so i checked the bolts on the pump, and dingaling ding, the 2 of 3 on the passenger side was loose, and 1 on the driver was loose. Couldn't believe it. I tightened them up, knowing it would only be a temporary fix.
I also discovered something that I'm pretty damn happy about! The good ol' optispark was replaced by the dealer sometime ago. It looks like it says Aug 16, 2007 or 2001. Either way, the Carfax showed it got a shit load of miles in the first 4 years. I think it was already at 40k in 01. So, either the Optispark is 60kish miles old, or only 15k miles.

So where is NYTRDR now! Well she's in the garage. Today, I pulled the water pump off. Have to get the o-ring that goes on the water pump shaft though, the part# 12553792, so I'll call up the dealer.

I have a bunch of other things I'm adding to the car, strut brace... other goodies.
TL;DR: 19 year old bought a rust free 97 Z from a mid 20s kid who put stupid emblems on it. It has had cooling problems but he cool as fuq.
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Figured I'd give an update. Well it's not an update sadly. I've been sick, so I haven't been to the garage. College said Norovirus has been going around, hope I didn't get it.. Should be starting again tomorrow hopefully.

Hope u feel better. Btw: excellent write up.

I come bearing good news. I put the pump on last night, and put her all together today. Turned the car on, love never felt so good.
Did some interior work too.
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I dropped one of the strut tower nuts while attempting to fit a strut brace... It is long gone.. So if anybody knows the size, that'd be great!


The exhaust was a little smokey. I'm guessing because the car hasn't ran in 4.5 months. I'll throw up a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0G4...ature=youtu.be

Asff

Get it up in the air and figure out where its coming from. Not normal to just have an oil/coolant mix on the ground coming from a car that was just stored. Keep us posted on what the shop finds.

I was going to be changing the oil a few days ago, so I was looking around the oil pan and noticed it was moist. I had the gasket and rear main seal done this past April.
But to be honest, I'm going to pull some plugs and go from there. I checked the oil, and it was maybe 3 holes over filled. The oil was like a milky yellow color. I knew it was coolant, what else could it be... Sorry didn't make it clear. Wasn't too happy yesterday, but now I'm fine. I'm just happy I have a great family, who like the car as much as I do.
Now to find a shop.. school > camaro :)

Long story short boys and girls, I was a dingus. Head gaskets are OKAY as of today. Now, my problem with the car besides the leaky water pump was air in the coolant lines. I'm bleeding it to Shbox.com's directions. But this last time, I had it at a shop, a damn good shop. Background on them, they work, no specialize, on C1-C3 Corvettes and other classics.
So I'm coming home today, and the temp gauge starts climbing. I IMMEDIATELY pull over, pop the hood, no coolant anywhere. Open the bleeders, there is air. Not a lot, but a bit.
I've had so many problems lol people probably get confused. Where could I possibly have an air leak at? Could it be one of the bleeder screws not forming a tight seal? Another thing, I noticed the sensor on the WP had some moisture on it... I tightened it a little bit before and haven't noticed anything on it since. Any ideas on how air is getting in?
-Improper bleeding is one, I'll bleed it again.
-Radiator cap is new. Never replaced the overflow one though.
-Haven't noticed any leaks but I'll check again
-Radiator is new
Hit me with some ideas guys and gals!

Pressure test the coolant system and you will find the leak

FYI the upper bleeder on the Heater hose is on the suction side of the pump. If you open it car running you can suck air back in and make your issue worse. Get it hot shutdown and bleed. Pumps will only push so much air. Foam is hard to get rid of once you get it

@TubbyFormy , I never thought of that! So should I still open the one on the WP while the car is running?

I don't open either unless it's hot and off, I got tired of chasing my tail with it

Hell, I'm tired of chasing my tail too. I'll try it today or tomorrow.. Its freezing in Michigan again

Do a youtube search. I believe i remember one on how to bleed an lt1 specifically.

I'm sure there is, I'll check it out just for the reinforcement. I've always been opening them up with the car running. And I have to check the recovery tank as well. Which might be low. So I'll top the radiator off and check the recovery tank.
It's 33 degrees outside now. Tomorrow it is supposed to be 69 (lol 69). Welcome to Michigan.

Edit: Now it says 45 for tomorrow. :( I wanted the warmth!

Well an update because I know so many people are following :)
I had a coolant leak again, and I put it under pressure and it had a minor leak in two spots. At the coupling to the flow valve control on the lower heater hose, and the coupling at the bleeder up top. So I ordered a new heaterhose assembly. Won't be putting it on till a couple weeks but I'll be sure to shoot some pics! I'm going to replace the radiator hoses too.

Parts came in today :D Will post up pics when I get it completed whenever it doesn't rain.
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^^ This is where it was leaking before.

Well thats a good find man... take pics of the swap
Keep that opti dry as well.

Plan on it, with the help of the opti-gods, I should be fine.

Dont be afraid to set rags across the opti to buybu a buffer in case u spill something.

Alright, well I ran into a problem. A stupid problem. So the bolt that holds the metal pipes that are part of the heater hose, well it doesn't want to come loose. To make matters worse, there is almost no room to get at it. To make it terrible, it's a stupid the bolt has an allen head on it. WTF GM? I'd like to meet the dingus who decided that a regular bolt would not be suitable.

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There it is, hard to see sorry. The A/C compressor is really in the way. I didn't think I'd have to remove it, but it looks like I may have to. Any ideas?

Got the son of a bitch off, sorta... I ended up just prying and breaking the metal clip thing. God damn it was a pain in the ass. Will hopefully finish it off tomorrow.

Now I have to figure out the oil leak.. It's coming from the back of the engine near where the trans and engine meet. I believe it's the rear main seal, or the oil pan gasket again. It's a shame, it's just been replaced as of a year ago this month.

Every thing is in... Finished it on Wednesday...
I was too nervous to fill it with coolant and start it.. :(

So I have a question. BEFORE I started having all these problems. When I would go out to start the car, if I turned the key on, let all the lights come on, but then turn it off, it made a vacuum sound. It doesn't do it anymore however. Was that vacuum sound for the Optispark or do I just have a possessed car? Sorry if it doesn't make sense...

Im not aware of anything that would make a vac sound for the opti... u sure ur not hearing the fuel pump prime?

That's probably what it would be. Just wondered since I don't hear it any more

car is running groovy.
Couple questions:
My clutch pedal clicks almost every time I push it in. Its annoying as hell.. This the result of a clutch throwout bearing?
Also, my security light has been on for about 8 months. I haven't had any starting problems so I believe VATS is not the problem. I tried both keys, light still on. Is there a way to reset it? Like leaving the ignition on for 20 min.
Thanks!

Ur gonna have to bypass the vats... or tune it out. Eventually... it wont start. I hear licking the chip can get u going in a bind (no bs... it was in another thread.)

I'll add doing the bypass to my list.. Will that at least turn off the security light?
Also got my hurst shifter. Shout out to @Fastbird What a nice guy,didn't expect it to come in. I was honestly thinking it'd come in like next week or something.

The bypass should kill the light. Yes.

Put the new shifter in. 1000000x times better.
Back story, I was having trouble having trouble hitting gears. Turns out, the bolts for the shifter were barely finger tight. I never looked at the shifter before, I wouldn't ever leave bolts that loose.
But I really dig this new set up.

Figured I'd give an update on my ride to anybody that sees this. It's going along good. Thanking the camaro gods I have ttops because I haven't filled the a/c system yet.
I was going to have a y-pipe made for my shorties, but decided not to. Instead I'll be installing some LTs this winter. As well as do a full break service.

Pray to the LT1 gods with me, "We will not let Dan's camaro have anymore problems!"

Lol... good luck!

P0137 code popped up. Bank 1 sensor 2 low voltage. I smell a tune out in the future..
P0140 I think showed up before. Which is no activity at all.. Post Cat o2 sensors don't calculate fuel air ratio right?
Also getting P0410 which is secondary air injection system. That is for emissions. I'll double check to see if it is even plugged in :D
P1441 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) System flow during non-purge. I replaced the sensor for it, only for me to break it, so I'll replace it again and see if that fixes it. Is the EVAP emissions related..I know it says it in its name, but is it important.
Should be doing the VATS bypass too someday.
Thanks :D

I hate the CEL, been on since I've owned the car.

And thanks @popo8 you the man!

Yes... u can tune out the post cats

What state donu live in... evap is part of emissions... but that can be tuned out ... (in my case the only evap i could not tune out was the evap solenoid code... so i plugged the noid back in with not equipt on the other end of it.. and the lite went out. Lol

I'm in Michigan. No testing or inspections.
Since I still have the Cats, would it be a bad idea to tune it out or no? I have no idea how tuning works lol.

I tuned mine out when i got my car... well actually i put simulators in there... since i had an o2 go bad.

If ur not planning anymore mods...id tune it out. If u are... id wait to do the tune for everything.

thank you sir. I think I'm done with mods for the year. Really want to just drive, and have fun with it.
I should say no major mods. Of course I'll still be looking for a complete 97 black leather interior. Ill just need a bit more money though. I'm picky lol.
I know of a local tuner near me, forgot his prices on code tune outs. Wasn't too bad.

Well have him delete all ur emissions stuff... and tune out vats... have him set the fans to come on earlier (like 170) and get a 160 thermostat... i had Nick on here do mine for the ta... he even raised the redline... adjusted the shift points... ser it up for the larger wheels and tires... and the 3.73 gears... threw a lil timing at it... raised the idle and she runs and drives better than ever...with 190k on the odometer.