8 different codes all of a sudden.

Back ground on my car, last year I did a h/c install, everything went pretty good, it is currently on a mail order tune. I had some oil pressure issues that I fixed, a battery draw, and hard starting when the car has been up to operating temps. Basically it stumbles to life, but always starts. Car has new plugs, wires, gm opti, original coil, and an electric water pump. I am assuming the water pump is causing the draw, but I will sort that out later.

After changing the coolant one last time, the car all of a sudden popped up a check engine light. Scanned it, DTC CODES 42 43 44 45 51 53 54 55.

I checked the car, assuming I left something unplugged, or bumped something, but I can't figure it out. There is no change in drivability, idle, no missing. The car acts exactly the same, except it has the codes. I am currently puttin the car into storage, and will be dealing with the codes next year. I have not hammered it down, as I am waiting to get it on a dyno to make sure all is well.

All ideas welcome. Let me know if you need more info.

google those codes and see what you come up with.

I have seen this before. Those are bogus codes. Any group like that containing DTC51 isn't to be trusted. Most likely cause is low battery voltage or bad power/ground wiring to the pcm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GaryDoug

I have seen this before. Those are bogus codes. Any group like that containing DTC51 isn't to be trusted. Most likely cause is low battery voltage or bad power/ground wiring to the pcm.

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That would make sense. This battery (new) I had to bring back to life a couple times because I forgot to unhook it (because of the draw). The voltage looks ok on the dash, but I suppose I should read it with a voltmeter.

For the codes, here they are.
42 - Ignition control circuit, short or grounded
43 - Knock sensor circuit
44 - Bank 1 (left) O2 sensor, lean
45 - Bank 1 (left) O2 sensor, rich
51 - EEPROM program error
53 - System voltage high
54 Fuel pump circuit low voltage
55 - Fuel lean monitor

Some of them don't even make sense, like the o2 being rich AND lean?

Looks like it might be the battery or am electrical gremlin....yay!

I'm going to bump this again. In the spring, I'm bringing my car back to my place and starting working on it again. Now I am pretty sure the draw is related to the electric water pump, as electrically that's the only thing I changed. It works as it should, only comes on when I start the car, but I'm wondering if I did something wrong when wiring it up. What are some other things I can check for the draw? Pretty sure I will need a new battery, too, which sucks as this is another brand new battery down the drain. Thanks.

Does it have an aftermarket alarm?

or aftermarket stereo and/or amplifier?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bustedassz28

or aftermarket stereo and/or amplifier?

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Nope on both.

and no on the alarm.

Here is one way to go: Buy a digital clamp meter to measure the battery drain while you pull fuses.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MASTECH-...1cc&rmvSB=true

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GaryDoug

Here is one way to go: Buy a digital clamp meter to measure the battery drain while you pull fuses.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MASTECH-...1cc&rmvSB=true

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That's a cool gadget. I have a volt meter, so I should be ok.

i supposed I could just disconnect the power wire to the ewp, and that would eliminate it right there.

Honestly if it's hard to start when warm, I would look at the fuel pump. Not sure if that's what's causing your drain but that's always been a sign for me that a fuel pump is about to crap the bed. Might want to even check the fuel pump relay as well, I've seen enough cars have issues with it and that could be leading to a drain and failing fuel pump symptoms. A decent test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and prime the pump while wiggling the relay, also check for any signs of burn plastic/wires around it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 94ndta

Nope on both.

and no on the alarm.

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i installed a viper with keyless entry and trunk pop and i have a complete system sub amps mids tweets kenwood with Bluetooth so i have hands free phone and integrated the steering wheel controls so they still work. how would those cause any code's?? seem's like a crazy question. i have never had any codes whatsoever

Quote:

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Originally Posted by myltwon

Honestly if it's hard to start when warm, I would look at the fuel pump. Not sure if that's what's causing your drain but that's always been a sign for me that a fuel pump is about to crap the bed. Might want to even check the fuel pump relay as well, I've seen enough cars have issues with it and that could be leading to a drain and failing fuel pump symptoms. A decent test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and prime the pump while wiggling the relay, also check for any signs of burn plastic/wires around it.

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Not a bad idea. I thought I had already checked the fp, but that could also have been at initial start up. Thanks, that's another thing I will check.

Codes are fake. None are real. I just went through this myself. Get a laptop and scanning software and see what's really going on. Best mod I've invested in has been scanning software.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by El Super Kevbot

Codes are fake. None are real. I just went through this myself. Get a laptop and scanning software and see what's really going on. Best mod I've invested in has been scanning software.

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What did it end up being?


Im guessing it is the battery, with the electrical issues I have been having, it simply is shot from having to jump it/trickle charge it too many times. It won't even take a charge right now. I have the battery stored indoors, and one of my a inlaws cars died that took the same battery size. Took it out, wouldn't work. Hooked it up to the trickle charger over night, no charge now. Looks like I'm getting my third battery, I will just have to be more diligent and figure out this stupid electrical gremlin before I can drive my car.

Holy f*ck I think I just had a revelation.

if anyone else is following my build thread, I had an issue with not getting the Hotwire kit to work.

the Hotwire attaches to the alternator...i bet you my battery is shot, and my alternator is shot (original alternator)

thats causing the draw, that's why my car is so difficult to start after it's been sitting, that's what's causing the error codes.
I will of course test my theory, but I would bet my bottom dollar.

Now I just need the snow to melt so I can test my theory...insert evil laugh here..

Cars home, battery is good. Checked for a draw on the system, 16.9 mA. Disconnected the power wire from alternator, stil had a 16.9mA draw. Pulled the wiring harness off, tested it. Bam! No draw!

this connects directly into the voltage regulator if I'm not mistaken. 99% sure it's just the regulator as the alt is virtually brand new, but could it be the harness as well? Or would it best to replace the entire alternator and harness.
Voltage re
gulator would make make sense for every issue I am having right now (at least in my head.)

16.9mA/.0169A would not be considered a "draw" anything under 500mA is good/normal/common it would take about 90 days to use up the reserve capacity of a typical group 75 battery.
The current flow is for the excitation of the alternator and would not be present on a 1 wire/self exciting alternator.

The most likely cause for your problem is a poor ground somewhere in the PCM circuit. Check all of your grounds and clean your PCM connectors with contact cleaner.

The warm start condition would be ignition related not fuel. When an engine is warm the AFR is leaner and a lean mixture is more resistant to current flow so it works
the ignition system harder. What part of the ignition is the culprit is hard to say and the only way to know for sure is to connect an ignition analyzer/scope and look at
the waveform. The problem with that is there are few people that know how to read them and fewer shops that have them. My prime suspect would be the ICM though
provided the secondary side of the ignition system (plugs/wires) is in good working order. A weak coil will generally cause problems in the upper RPM from lack of
dwell time but not start up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revolutions

16.9mA/.0169A would not be considered a "draw" anything under 500mA is good/normal/common it would take about 90 days to use up the reserve capacity of a typical group 75 battery.
The current flow is for the excitation of the alternator and would not be present on a 1 wire/self exciting alternator.

The most likely cause for your problem is a poor ground somewhere in the PCM circuit. Check all of your grounds and clean your PCM connectors with contact cleaner.

The warm start condition would be ignition related not fuel. When an engine is warm the AFR is leaner and a lean mixture is more resistant to current flow so it works
the ignition system harder. What part of the ignition is the culprit is hard to say and the only way to know for sure is to connect an ignition analyzer/scope and look at
the waveform. The problem with that is there are few people that know how to read them and fewer shops that have them. My prime suspect would be the ICM though
provided the secondary side of the ignition system (plugs/wires) is in good working order. A weak coil will generally cause problems in the upper RPM from lack of
dwell time but not start up.

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I will have to check it again. The screen is going out on my fluke, maybe it was 1690 mA, lol.
Right now now it will drain a battery over night. That's gotta be a significant draw.

I have had three different people tell me they have received these codes using an innova scan tool (what I used) and it turned out there was only 1 or 2 actual codes. My screen is busted, it could be 1.69 amps, or 1690 mA.

i have a new alt on order, but will have it tested before I buy it.

Had the alternator tested, it is shot. I ordered a rebuilt one with a lifetime warranty as I will never sell this car. It will be here tomorrow. I don't know if this will solve all my issues, but at least it will solve some.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revolutions

16.9mA/.0169A would not be considered a "draw" anything under 500mA is good/normal/common it would take about 90 days to use up the reserve capacity of a typical group 75 battery.
The current flow is for the excitation of the alternator and would not be present on a 1 wire/self exciting alternator.

The most likely cause for your problem is a poor ground somewhere in the PCM circuit. Check all of your grounds and clean your PCM connectors with contact cleaner.

The warm start condition would be ignition related not fuel. When an engine is warm the AFR is leaner and a lean mixture is more resistant to current flow so it works
the ignition system harder. What part of the ignition is the culprit is hard to say and the only way to know for sure is to connect an ignition analyzer/scope and look at
the waveform. The problem with that is there are few people that know how to read them and fewer shops that have them. My prime suspect would be the ICM though
provided the secondary side of the ignition system (plugs/wires) is in good working order. A weak coil will generally cause problems in the upper RPM from lack of
dwell time but not start up.

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Well, the alternator did not solve anything (that I am aware of). I still have codes present (and no scanner to scan them)
It still is reading 170 mA draw, I got another scanner and checked it.

How ow is it possible to drain a battery over night with only a 170 amp draw? is there something that is staying on after the car is shut off, but then no longer stays on when I disconnect the battery to test the draw?

I will check/clean grounds again, and try to get a different scanner. I guess when I get more money I will get one of computers set up to scan.

any other ideas would be appreciated.

Well, found the draw for the battery. I went out to my car to check to see if there was a voltage drop, and before I turned my light on, I noticed the light on the center consol was on. I had checked it before and it was off. I really need to push down on it to turn it off.

it makes me wonder if my alternator was actually bad, or if the kid at the auto parts store just wanted me to buy anew alt. well, that's one issue resolved.

Down to one code, looks like the batch of codes was either bogus, or the new alt. solved a whole slew of codes.

only code left is DTC 43, knock sensor circuit. Pulling 7 degrees of timing. I also got some screen shots of the scan, because I could.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psiw8izbzz.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pshurq7gkx.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psl2zm6dex.jpg

so I know this could be a couple things, the knock sensor itself, the wiring, but I am pretty sure my header is hitting the transmission (I think) brave, I can feel it and hear it vibrating when driving at most rpms. Now, I know I need to fix this, but would this cause the 43 code as well.

@Revolutions, you may be onto something with the ICM as well. Code 43 could be ICM as well. Will test soon.

Even if no one is offering resolutions, I feel it is good the get things on paper to look back at what I've done, or if it can help someone in a search. Not saying no body is helping, just saying sometimes it's good to ramble. Lol

The 7° of retard being shown for knock is a fail safe as in it is the maximum retard value based on current RPM and MAP.
A faulty/failing ICM will not set code 43
Have you gone through the diagnostic chart for the knock sensor.
Attachment 32347

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revolutions

The 7° of retard being shown for knock is a fail safe as in it is the maximum retard value based on current RPM and MAP.
A faulty/failing ICM will not set code 43
Have you gone through the diagnostic chart for the knock sensor.
Attachment 32347

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Oh, will check it, I haven't yet. I have a bulging disc that is killing me right now.

the MODIS I used, and when I looked up the code said Possible "ECM module" as well.

Yes possible problems are ECM, Knock sensor, Knock sensor module or knock sensor wiring/connector.
Above you said ICM which is not an option.

I did, yeah lack of sleep does funny things.

Looks like Easter was canceled, so I will check to knock sensor today. I will have to check fuel pressure once it's warmed up, but I disconnected the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to see if it was leaking fuel after I shut the car off. When it stumbles to life, it sits at 1500rpm for about 10-15 seconds then goes down to normal, my other suspect is a leaky injector, which are brand new, I hope that's not it. Again, just getting my thoughts on paper, but any advice is appreciated.

Easter was canceled, so I will check the knock sensor today. I did disconnect to fuel pressure regulator to see if it was leaking fuel causing it too flood when warmed up, but no it was dry. When it stumbles to life, it will sit at 1500 rpm for 10-15 seconds, then goes back to normal. I will have to still get a fuel pressure gauge. Other suspect was a leaky injector, but they are brand newdelphis I would hope not.

ive been wanting to replace the coil, this is what it looked like before I put it in. I cleaned off the corrosion, but it looked liked it took some chunks out of it. I don't know if that has something to do with it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps5c4729bc.jpg
again, just trying to get my thoughts on paper. Any advice is appreciated, but not required. Just putting down the info if someone has the same issue in the future.

Bone head move I debated not posting to save face.

The ******** knock sensor was unplugged....

My buddy unplugged it as we were debating on draining the block. I was unaware.

yeah......

feels ls like I gained 100 hp, lol.

so now I just need to figure out the stumble, then it's off to the dyno.