383 stroker build advice/look over

I have recently started a 383 stroker build with the help of firebird_1995. I was just wanting any input/advice on anything I have already and a estimate on what it will run and put down for hp.

SHORTBLOCk
Lt1 4bolt main blue printed, studded, zero decked, bored 30
Callies dragon slayer 3.75 stroke forged crank
Callies compstar H beam 6.0 forged rods
Wiesco -5.4cc forged pistons

Top End
LE Trickflow heads with upgraded springs/porting
LE ported intake
LE custom grind billet cam 247/255 .600/.608 109 lsa
Comp Cam ultra pro mag 1.6 rr
Comp Cam push rods not sure on length yet
Comp Cam double roller timing chain
Comp Cam Type R Roller Lifters

Electrical
MSD optispark
MSD coil
MSD digital 6 plus box
NOS mini programmer

The Accessories
Moroso 5qt race pan
meziere ewp with custom spacers
Melling m-55HV oil pump with moroso pick up
58MM Holley TB
42# SVT green top injectors
N2O wet 58MM plate kit 200shot


well I think that's all for now that I can remember thanks for the input.

I think we'll get a little better handle on whether we're going in the right direction with this by polling guys that have done it. What brand is your plate kit? I'm wanting to say a 150-175 shot will be max before you have to worry about going lean. Something about the back cylinders being fed so far from the plate I believe...

I do not think they recomend such a heavy shot through a front feeder plate like that.

Have you sourced the engine parts? Last I read the dragonslayer was either back ordered or unable to be gotten.

While boring 0.030" over gives you the ability to say "I have a 383", you might want to give consideration to limiting the overbore to 0.020" (381). That leaves you a heavier cylinder wall, and increases the chance that the block will survive yet another rebuild down the road.

Are the Wiseco pistons specifically designed for nitrous use? Typically you will get a stronger crown and the ring pack will be dropped down a bit to keep the rings away from the extreme heat? There is a downside, with the extra weight and an increase in the tendency of the piston to rock in the bore.

The 109 LSA will give you good N/A power, but will allow some nitrous to blow through during valve overlap. That will increase the amount of nitrous required to achieve the 200HP, but it's a reasonable tradeoff if you want max N/A performance.

Why the MSD Opti? In the 15+ years I've been on this type boards, helping people with Opti problems, the MSD has not proven to be any better than the AC Delco part, and possibly inferior. Check a thread by "TubbyFormy" regarding surging problems with an MSD that had just been rebuilt by MSD. He replaced it with an AC Delco and the problems went away. I helped another person on CZ28.com with a similar problem, and he also had an MSD Opti. The MSD has had many problems over the years, some of which have been corrected, and some of which have not.

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...m-bad-to-worse

I would opt for a high pressure oil pump, before a high volume.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by firebird_1995

I think we'll get a little better handle on whether we're going in the right direction with this by polling guys that have done it. What brand is your plate kit? I'm wanting to say a 150-175 shot will be max before you have to worry about going lean. Something about the back cylinders being fed so far from the plate I believe...

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I'm not a fan of the plate.... the distribution is a problem, even with a dry shot like I run. The guys at Second Street Speed, who live and die by dry nitrous installs did not recommend a plate for my dry 300-shot, citing problems with getting even distribution to all 8 cylinders, with #7 and #8 being the major problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TubbyFormy

Stay far far far away from msd optis. Trust me. That thing made me so mad I gave it to someone for cost of shipping.

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It'd make you even madder to know where it's at now lol

MSD optis are very sensitive to voltage spikes. I found this out firsthand on my monte. The car would start and stay running while the key was being held in the start position. As soon as you'd release it, it would shut down. I chased wiring for days thinking it was something I did wrong. Changed the opti, and away I went. The voltage spike the sensor seen when the starter current was removed from the system load was enough to shut the car down.

I actually met Anthony through craigslist. He bought my old MSD opti for $100 and I sold it as "not working, for parts only" and told him my situation. He put it on his car without a rebuild and it's been plugging away ever since.

So I dont get too wrapped up with the whole "MSD=bad" debate. I've seen a "bad" MSD opti work fine on a different car twice now.

Well I already have all these parts and the motor is being built as we speak. The only think I'm kinda worried about is the pistions but I think I'm just gonna stick with a smaller shot and run 2 stages. And yeah I've had no problems out of the msd opti I fact it made my car run way better. And I aleays thought hp was worse then hv oil pumps. And what would be better than a wet plate run a direct port system.

Well currently the msd is all I have I would eventually like to convert over to the 24x but it's all I got for now I was just stating that I didn't have any problems out of it. And also I was asking if there were to things to improve on what we're they and I obviously see now the msd opti may be one of those things and then pistions are weisco 5017H3

ditch the hv pump. go std volume but higher psi spring. that cam looks like it will have a ton of overlap. you would be better off on gas with a wider lsa. also parts are only half the equation for making power. properly setting the ring gap and all the clearances will be key to making it live.

Yeah I have my Machinest setting the ring gaps for n20. And he is a pretty well know builder in my area hasn't proved me wrong yet so i got faith but still scared
till it's all together and in the car running and the cam I just let llyoid do his thing I told him what I wanted todo and what I had as far as parts and that's what he recommended and it's already on it's way so I guess will see how it goes but thanks for the input

Probably worth mentioning this is going in his grand national. 3600# with him in it. Are you getting the converter restalled for 4k?

Idk was just gonna wait and see how she does with the current set
up and go from there

Yeah I currently have a yank ss 3600 stall and still have a free reflash but I was just gonna try out what I have first before I thought about restalling it.

So anybody have a around about hp number for me.

I was never good at the hp guessing game on NA cars... but what is the CR gonna be?

It should come out to be 12.1cr I'm hoping to get a good 600hp to the flywheel before n20

450-500fwhp, and where did my posts go? Da faq is this.

I guess the dyno will be the only way to really tell.

It really will...