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Ok the other night at the track I launched at 2500and 3000 and 1500 and I wheel hopped like a mofo I had the shocks set at 2 compression and 2 rebound and went all the way to 6 compression and 2 rebound and still wheel hopping a shit ton my tire size is 275 45 r17 my buddy said I need a taller tire and smaller wheel like a 275 60r15 what are y'all's thoughts
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
cant go wrong with a 276/60 but it could also have to do with the kind of tire and psi u r running. also u got aftermarket LCAs or panhard bar?
Do you have LCA relo brackets? Hopefully it's not lowered.
Are you sure the current tires aren't 275/40-17? That's the stock size for the WS6 at 25.7" diameter. A 275/60-15 would be a 28" tire.
Yes tire type brand and psi make a huge oart of wheel hop
ok guys I have Viking double adjustable shocks 3 pt sfc's spohn lca's umi double adjustable ta umi on car adjustable phb tires are mickey Thompson et streets and I had 16 psi car is not lowered and I have a quick performance 9"
and yes sorry they are 275/40/r17
would 275 60 15 fit under my car without rubbing? what do I need? wheel backspacing, fender roll, my rearend is also narrowed 1/2" on each side
It will fit but may need a lil hammer mod in a spot or 2. A 10" wheel would be beat. And 5.5 bs should work.
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What are the shocks set to
The first couple passes they were set at 2 comp and 2 rebound now it set at 6-8 comp and 2 reboundQuote:
Originally Posted by shadowbandit
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
What's your pinion angle set too.
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I didn't see LCA relo brackets on your list. I found them to totally cure wheel hop. And that's running both drag radials on the street and full slicks on the track. Stock ride height, Spohn brackets, LCA in the lowest hole. Steve Spohn also set up a 97 SS convertible with the same brackets/same geometry, and it was a low 8-second/near 170MPH car.
I ran the 28" Hoosier QTP's in the signature photo, and I had to move the rear axle back about 1/4" so they didn't hit the sheet metal body at the front of the wheel openings, when the tires grew at ~130MPH. You should not experieince that level of tire growth with radials. My rear inner fenders had already been hammerd fior 315/35-17 BFG DR's on 11" wide ZR1/GS wheels.
My Pro-Stars are 10" wide, 7.5" BS, and that puts the outer edge of the tire right under the edge of the fender (that's a 28.1" ET Drag 28x10.5-15W in the photo). That's with a stock width rear axle. If you are using a narrowed rear axle (e.g. - 3rd Gen dimensions) you would use the smaller backspace.
set the front shocks to full loose on the extension, and halfway on compression , rear close to full stiff on compression, extension halfway.. on a radial car you NEED to have good weight transfer to the rear tire... play with the spring height up front. lca 1 hole from the bottom hole, you don't want to much antisquat.
you don't want the car to squat at all, make sure pinion angle is good , and the suspension front to back is free and not binding anywear. tire pressure looks good. this is a stick car? if so might want to entertain thoughts of getting some et drags or et street bias plies, radials will work but you will have to have the suspension absolutely perfect and the radials will not recover like a bias ply will.
Let us know how it goes. btw what's the details on the whole car?
ok guys my 9" has 4 different holes mine is all the way to the top atm rear is centered in wheel well, I do not have adjustable front anything its all stock, yes car is 6 spd, pinion angle is not perfect but when im on the street and I romp on it in first and slam second I spin like crazy I leave two long ass black marks on the ground ask @Blackbird96WS6 car is 97 z28 383 forged scat crank and forged pistons rods are stock, cam is an earson custom cam is a 230-238 108LSA 548 lift, 58mm tb, ported intake including intake runners, #42 lb injectors, trickflow 195 heads,1.5 rr, k&n cai, msd opti, pacesetter longtubes, qtp electric cutouts, 95 t56 spec 3+clutch, umi trans crossmember, umi on car adjustable TA, umi 3 pt weld in sfc's, moog constant rate springs, vicking double adjustable shocks, umi on car adjustable panhard bar, spohn performance non adjustable lca's, b&m short throw shifter. @Injuneer I like those tires @dawdaw if u need any more info just ask im already looking at some streetlight wheels and tires full slickQuote:
Originally Posted by dawdaw
Man ya need that pinion angle around -2 I had bad wheel hop until i figured out my pinion angle, on the street it was fine but at the track know dice nothing but wheel hop no matter what rpm I left at.
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I need someone to come adjust it for me pllllzzzzzQuote:
Originally Posted by 97firehawk
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
As I said before on the shock settings and drop the lca down 2 holes
You might need to run a slick ;)
Pinion angle isn't hard. Get a magnetic or electronic angle.finder and go to Midwest chassis's website and go to the how to section it has a pinion angle article that I found most easy to understand.
Your shock settings were most screwed.up, you will notice a huge difference if you adjust them how.I told you to in a previous post. It still might not hook but those shock settings will get you 90% there, you might want to get.some weight out of the front of the car as well, that will help transfer weight to the rears much better.
The bast bang for the Buck weight is front tubular bumper support from mwc or burkhart, mwc is half the price though and very nice. What gear ratio and size et radials are you running?
But I do not have aftermarket front anything it's all stock susp. And I have 3:89 gears with mt et streets 275/40/17Quote:
Originally Posted by dawdaw
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
I will drop two holes after I change fuel pumpQuote:
Originally Posted by dawdaw
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
Fp took a dump on you? Dropping the tank or trap dooring her?
You have adjustable front shocks.correct? The 17s are not helping, get a 15 inch by 10 inch rim in the rear. Your really gonna want a et drag if.you are a full weight car up front, you're going to have no weight transfer hardly lol
He's already got the trap door mod, shouldn't take him long at all to swap.
Do you still have heim joints in the torque arm mount? If you have heims on the part that mounts to the rearend and another set on the torque arm it creates a joint and can possibly cause some serious damage. I agree with the everybody else about lowering the LCA's. A taller bias ply tire on a 15x10 with 7.5 bs should help a ton, and the 1/2 inch narrower will make the tire clear the fender better.
What do you mean by heim joint???? I have all aftermarket rear everything susp. Wise except sway bar,Quote:
Originally Posted by wysemunky
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
I don't have front adjustable a just the stockers everything up front is original unless anyone has fronts they're willing to part with for really cheap, I'm already looking at rim and tire choices,Quote:
Originally Posted by dawdaw
SMOKE TIRES NOT DRUGS
Go to my project thread that I started a couple says ago, there's a few photos of my front suspension. That will.give you a good idea of a heim joint, its just a metal joint is all, there fast to.react but.wear faster.
If I were you I would switch to a 15 inch bias ply tire. I think you will see a huge difference right off the bat. That short sidewall radial tire is not helping especially with a stick.