Hey guys I'm working on swapping my 95formula drivetrain to a 96t/a. I wondering can I jut plug my PCM in and go or does anything need changed so I can still use the Aldl cable I have. The cable is for the obd 1.5. The obd2 plug but obd1 protocol?
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Hey guys I'm working on swapping my 95formula drivetrain to a 96t/a. I wondering can I jut plug my PCM in and go or does anything need changed so I can still use the Aldl cable I have. The cable is for the obd 1.5. The obd2 plug but obd1 protocol?
96 harness will plug into the 95 PCM. Just make sure the tan data wire is on the correct pin in the 96 16-pin ALDL connector. I would also disconnect any ALDL connector wires that are not used by the 95 setup.
Courtesy of Shoebox:
This diagram shows both ALDL connector pinouts:
http://shbox.com/1/DLC_wiring.jpg
The harness connector tables in this link show the difference between the 95 and 96 in red. As I mentioned in the other post, it's just the rear O2 sensors, the EVAP purge vacuum switch, the CKP sensor, and in this case the serial data wire.
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm_conn_d.jpg
Thanks man!! That's what I was looking for!
So basically if the tan wire is anywhere besides pin #9 move it to the #9? Then the other wires that are in red on the second link just cut them and dead them off? Well it's only one.
The both show the tan data wire on pin #9.
The knock sensor is different too, but if your using the 95 drivetrain then you should already have the correct sensor on the engine.
OP will be using 95 engine,trans, harness, and pcm. Only difference is 96 body and cabin harness under dash.
Not correct. 93-95 need a 4,000 ohm unit, 96/97 need the 100,000 ohm sensor. Mismatching the sensor with the PCM will set a code for the knock sensor, and the PCM will start pulling significant amounts of ignition timing based on engine operating conditions. You can alter the PCM internally to compensate for the mismatch, but not by using the LT4KM.
@Injuneer I notice that in the enter console of the 96 the plug is there for my trans perform button. Can I just plug it in and it works ? Or is there something that needs done? All the pins on the back of the actual switch have mates in the wires. Also I am gonna be using the 95s PCM so it worked in that car.
Good to know about the knock module
The tuner told me they did something in the computer...not the resistor...and did not change the sensor.
But @JPack explained something avout the lt4 knock mod allowing the same thing to happen.
My car is running the same knock sensor...with the obd1 conversion.
And it works.
@JPack was able to explain it before.
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I have no idea if the wiring in the 96 would be compatible, since I don't think the 96 had a trans performance feature. Whether they just left the wiring there, and eliminated the switch I really don't know. I do know that Shoebox has a procedure for adding the performance button to the 94/95 Camaro, which did not have the button. The wiring seems so simple that I would just try connecting the harness connector and your 95 console switch and see if it works. If not, it would probalby a simple wiring change.
http://shbox.com/1/tpbutton_diag.jpg
as far as knock sensor mod.. here is some more info.. The ODB1 KS has an internal resistance of 3300 to 4500 ohms, the OBD2 KS resistance is 93K to 107K ohms. The fix is to put a 3900 ohm resistor in parallel with the knock sensor (blue wire to ground, external fix) or inside the OBD1 PCM (internal fix). By putting a 3900 ohm resistor in parallel with the 100K OBD2 KS the resistance changes to around 4000 ohms which is in range for the PCM. The sensitivity of the KS does not change. Here is a post of the internal fix which is more flexible as you can swap the OBD1 and OBD2 PCM back and forth (emission testing, etc) w/o having to remove the resistor. scroll to post #11 for a pic.. Internal PCM Resistor Mod: OBDII to OBDI Conversion? - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board
And here is more detail than you may want to read on the performance switch.. as previously mentioned it was not in the '96 , but maybe the wiring is still there . http://www.trifectaperformance.com/t...rmanceMode.htm I added one in my '94 Z28 that I use when I want to play around with different shifting and pressure points..
I'll post up an let u guys know what I find out. So if the question gets asked again in the future we have an answer
There wasn't any lt4 knock sensor, just the module in the pcm. So 94-97 can use either knock sensor with an lt4 knock module.
People tend to get confused on the Knock Module vs sensor, The Knock Sensor is the one on the block on the passenger side, the Module is in the PCM via the little access door. The ohm readings are different as said and will pull timing, But you can go into the PCM on the knock retard tables and desensitize or reduce or zero out the amount of timing the PCM will pull. I prefer to change out the module so I can leave some safety factor for any detonation especially in Nitrous setups and in Force Induction motors...
I emailed rob(shoebox) he didn't have an answe either about the perform button. I almost have the car back together to the point where I'm gonna be starting it in the next day or so. So I will let u guys know what happens with the button. Attachment 25574Here's the wiring in the 96 t/a. It's the exact same a the 95 where it plugged into the switch. The dirt/crud on it makes it look like originally it wasn't plugged into anything. So the wiring maybe there on some or all of the 96trans ams as well. Kind of a small detail but maybe this will help someone wanting to add the feature to their car. I like it personally it really firms the shifts up. (Almost seems to be have a bit more power) could just be true to the higher and harder shift points, or maybe I'm just
DataMaster has a "bit" flag that will tell you if the PCM has engaged the "performance" switch.
You can adjust the shift firmness in the program.
I know what ur talking bout I've seen it. I wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks!
Another scanner program I have that reads real time stuff also has the perform/normal trans input it says
Alright. I have everything (think) hooked back up. I'm not getting any power tho to the fuel pump. Don't hear it prime, and also I'm not getting any spark. I noticed on the wire harness right where the PCM is there is the two plugs, my slot D on the bigger harness doesn't have a wire (it does on the 95) does it need power or a ground? Where does it go that I don't have it on the 96? I have some pics should help!
Attachment 25663U can see the second one in it has the letter D. There's an orange wire on the 95 that goes there
Attachment 25664This is the PCM/ engine side of the harness. It's only missing a wire on the end. There's a wire coming out on here
Attachment 25665Another shot of the side of the car. I tried to follow where the wire goes in the 95, but it runs down where the headlight wires and everything up from by the battery and I didn't wanna pull all the loom off everything
I'm guessing since this is the only one that has orange listed it must be the one?
Are you looking at this connector?
Attachment 25670
I also tried plugging the laptop in to see if it was reading when the key was on. It says connected but none of the sensors move at all so it really seems like I'm missing a power or something.
Sorry so many post to explain but my phone likes to go crazy and I I true to type it all it would have crashed an I would have had to start over 6x anyways. Lol
It maybe the one for the headlights. Ia that the schematic for the plugs right at the PCM there?
The wire colors are different than those ones u listed.
A- pink
B- grn/wht
C- grn
D- not there on 96 on the 95 it's orange
E- brn
F- brn
G pink
H- blu
J- grn
k- open on both
On D on the PCM side I there is a orange wire also. It's just not there on the 96. So I think I'm missing a wire
Yes PIN D on the 95 PCM requires power. On the 95 car it comes from Fuse #8 (PCM)
First pic is 96 and the chart is the 95.
Attachment 25672Attachment 25673
Awesome! Hopefully that's the problem. Thank u! Nice to cuz u even have where it comes from. I would have been looking forever for that.
96 PCM is showing Fuse 13 as providing power.
If you run a wire to "D" on that connector, it is going to need to be hot in run AND crank.
I would recommend running a pin in there with a wire with a stripped tail, and then just running a jumper from it straight to the battery or positive posts right behind the battery.
That will tell you if it will work with a +12V, hot in run and crank.
So far this is the only difference changing things over.
So should I run a wire to fuse 8 in the engine fuse box? Or go to 13?
That's all I have to do right?
Okay I'll try it right there first.
I was thinking bout the little inline fuse. The car cranks, just no spark, and I don't think the fuel pumps kicking on either. Unless I jump a power right to the wire, would that one wire do that?