Vacuum pump time i guess for power brakes eh?Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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Vacuum pump time i guess for power brakes eh?Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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Maybe, but it's hard to say. Mine only does about 10-11 inches at idle and the brakes are fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
Nolan
ill have to see how it feels i supposeQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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Mechanical brake master cylinder time.
then mechanical brakes, tumbleweed effect. a hella vacuum pump is 178 on summitQuote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
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It's only money
You’re dealing with the original 28.5-year old rotors and pads in the front. The only things that were ever changed are the rear Baer rotors and somewhat upgrade rear pads. And of course no ABS.
regardless of the age of them, that has nothing to do with generating enough vacuum for the power brakes lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
had it out for a bit a few times today. working on idle tuning, as the rest of the time driving it looks good both o2 sensor wise/wideband wise. just have this stupid issue with it wanting to stall in gear coming to a stop. idles down really low. iac counts are where they should be, did the tb drill mod, richened it up, leaned it out, added timing, subtracted timing, etc. only when coming to a stop. even changed the throttle follower settings to like 5mph incase theres a funky signal going on im not seeing from the vss. still doesnt like to come to a stop idling. once stopped a little blip of the gas and shes fine. washed it too
also changed the diff fluid, and did flush 1 of 3 on the gear vendors. looks to have had gear oil in the gear vendors od, now gear vendors recommends atf for cars/racing use. they told me put some miles on it and change it 3 times, if it still acts up on apply it may need a rebuild (1700 bux ugh)
final thing, must still have air in the cooling system. she gets to 207-210f driving, then second i stop it comes right down to 194-197f. also gonna order a new 160f stat
https://youtu.be/LkPZ2H3r5E0
my cold lash guess of subtracting 0.006 (from what ive read) was pretty damn close hot (0.018 intake/0.020 exhaust)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3f90c16aff.jpg
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Is DFCO set to reactivate the injectors at a high enough RPM, and prevent stall? As you are well aware, I'm not a tuner, just like to look at the data. Just throwing out random thoughts. DFCO results in engine braking on decel, at least (I believe) with the stock 4L60E. But with the full manual valve body in the TH400 there is no engine braking.
And I understand the age of the brakes has nothing to do with the vacuum booster, but just an alert that in their ancient condition (glazed? warped?) they may take a bit heavier foot to be effective, specially when you pull the car down from those future 130+ MPH trap speeds :D
hmmm, i will check the dfco settings. i believe they are all set the way a normal auto car is set, i just cloned an auto bin and didnt enable auto trans mode for the vss pulses stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
there is engine braking in 3rd gear only. 1st-2nd have no engine braking.
as for the 130+mph trap speeds, i hope so lol. i am going to probably go some sort of wilwood in the front. i actually have brembo 4 piston calipers from a 350z in the garage, maybe make adapter brackets and use the 13" rotors for a c5z
I should have added “when downshifting”. Huge disappointment compared to the original T56 when approaching a traffic light next to a Jersey barrier.
Not sure if this was a new part or not but I had an issue on my CC306 manual car where it would stall when coming to a stop. I did the drill mod and it fixed it but I didn't take Alvin's original advice and check the IAC. I datalogged and the IAC was reading as it should so I didn't check it but I found out later during a tear down that the IAC spring was actually stuck fully compressed and was likely the issue all along. Food for thought to maybe pull the IAC and make sure it is actually working.
That's the big problem with the IAC data..... log shows "commanded", but no feedback as to actual. In OBD-2 they tried to solve this with a code for actual idle speed not matching target idle speed, and also commanding the IAC to move, looking for a corresponding change in MAF flow.
You can check the circuitry of the IAC:
http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg
yeah its gonna get pulled off this weekend and cleaned
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I have a spare IAC laying around if you need it.
Alsoooo....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...tionality.html
Just sayin'
interestingQuote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
some how i have 4 stock throttle bodies with no iac valves. idn how that happened
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dat abs module gotta goooooo
whos running dual catch cans??? yes my norris can on the pcv is working, but seeing alot of vapor in the passenger valvecover hose goooooohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0fb716c199.jpg
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Just a single mighty mouse can setup draft style, works just fine
u no haz maf correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
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SD life
hard to see in pic, but thats a 180 stat, so normally full open by 195f.....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...92a634f7ba.jpg
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amazon credit = new iachttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...00af944fb2.jpg
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function > form
lets get deeper into the 10's then we will clean up this underhood fiasco like a show carhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...22e8db248b.jpg
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I'll bring the aluminum polish !
spoke to FTI, PTC, and Pro-Torque this morning about the converter being restalled or changed. Everyone is on the same page that i should have a balloon plate or billet front cover converter with the torque/spray.
FTI quoted me pretty quick. Lookin like a 9" SST with mechanical diode so if i eventually want to go to a trans brake i can. around a 3600 stall on motor and should flash to mid 4000's on spray. current converter is only flashing to 3000 on spray and i am seeing 1500-1700rpm drop on shifts, both on motor and spray, so too tight all around for the new cam
Just ordered an FTI SST 9" custom converter. Mechanical diode but will be able to use the same converter when i go trans brake.
What torque # are you using for the converter? The old one was ~800 lb-ft to push it to 5,000 RPM. Worked on the chassis dyno, and from a roll.
When you pull the old one, let me know if they included the anti-balloon plate. I suspect lack of a plate might have contributed to the problems Baxter had with the rear main on his 1,350 HP Gen 1 (Dart Iron Eagle block) build from Second Street.
i didnt give them a torque number, because everything from the nitrous to the cam is different now. there was no real benefit to run the car that high up on that small cam, the car would have probably been quicker if the converter was even tighter on the old cam, since that cam made tons of torque down low.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
i gave them all the specs on the new cam setup and engine, planned shift point etc. they agreed that this converter with the billet cover, balloon plate, mech diode and a 27 pitch stator should stall on motor to around 3800 and not hamper the spray. an in between of sorts. the cam Lloyd spec'd now wants to be shifted at 6800-7000. the old cam was out of steam by 6200 (from the data). datalogs also showed the nitrous wasnt hitting until about 0.75 seconds into the run. we need it hitting earlier.
it pulls so hard from 6000 up on motor now, its like a chainsaw
im also gonna play with instant center and anti squat at the track. i think it hits a radial a little too hard and its trying to wad the tire up
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My eyes with cheaters reads 160 on that stat?Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
Nolan
nope 180f hard to get a pic ofQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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That looks like a 6 to me as well, the numbers to the left have an 8 in them and it really looks like a different stamp then the 6
definitely is a 180 boys. etched into the brass as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Z28pr0jekt
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exact same, jet 180Attachment 40407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z28pr0jekt
see belowQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
driveshaft out and exhaust removed. little by littlehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d4943ef406.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c82fbb9c08.jpgAttachment 40408
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Haha that picture looks significantly more clear than the other one.
I think I may be getting to the point of seeing an eye doc and getting full time glasses instead of reading cheaters. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
UPDATE: In case anybody said a prayer for me, THANKS. I pressure tested it and found a tiny leak from one of the heater hoses clamps in the area of #6&8 cylinders. It was pissing out onto the head and headers making a cloud of steam. With the engine shut down and inspecting with a flashlight at night, it appeared to be dripping out the head gasket. It was quite a relief to find it was nothing. All I had to do was snug the clamp.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Just for general info, all the rubber hoses on the factory heater hose assembly can be replaced right out of a Gates hose catalog. The have all the pre-formed hoses. You can cut the OEM crimps off and use hose clamps. Oh, don't be afraid to tighten the shit out of the clamps. LOL
Also, Didn't mean to highjack the thread, I just enjoy bench racing and sharing experiences.
Nolan
i had to do that once on a past car. same thing cut the crimps off and use regular hose clamps. hawks now sells reproduction heater hoses that are already crimped.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON