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Routing the IC piping was surprisingly easy. From the blower to IC was just 2 tubes, no cutting or beading needed.
Attachment 39585
Attachment 39586
Here's how I'm going to do the other side. I ordered 2x 45 degree elbows and 1x 90 degree reducer (didn't fit).
Attachment 39587
Attachment 39588
Also, my car is gonna be JDM af
Attachment 39589
Ordered a crapton of parts...
New hardware from Mcmaster for those missing pieces
Missing IC couplers
Procharger plastic inlet to make the CAI
Procharger belt
Procharger fan shims for the 12 rib setup
AN fittings and hose for blower drain and feed
Brake fittings and hose for the rear
Tailshaft bushing for the T56 (noticed a little bit up up/down play in the DS yoke, I think that might be my 4th gear vibration @WOT)
Bung for threaded IAT for a Syclone
NGK B/TR7's non projected plugs
2 bar MAP for a Sunbird or something
5/8" coolant bleeder from Z1 to relocate upper heater core line
Walbro 255 inline pump (GSL392) and fittings for a ghetto helper setup before the fuel filter (only temporary, I have twin 340's for when I install a new 98 tank, wiring, and hobbs switch)
Autometer vac/boost gauge
I'll be running the 7.65" crank pulley and 4.25" blower pulley on this thing, I think the blower rpm is around 55k with the oil fed D1. I'm guessing I'll be around 10psi or a little more which is higher than I'd like on the stock PCM but whatever.
I wouldn't even bother with the dual bleeders, just run the one on the thermostat and get a power funnel. Much easier.
Too late, wasting money is my specialty and I already ordered this puppy from Z1: https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...SABEgKRJvD_BwEQuote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
There's no provision for mounting the stock coil on this D1 bracket, so I screwed it into an unused thread on the head upside-down. I'll cut off the unused ear on the coil bracket and paint it at some point...
Attachment 39591
Some coolant pipe routing. I shimmed the passenger side fan motor with 6x 3/8" hex nuts and replaced the screws with longer 1/4" sheet metal screws to make up the difference. The pipe that goes to the thermostat is made from 2 upper radiator hoses and a 1" 90* copper elbow from Home Depot. I also moved the upper heater core line down the valvecover like I said which bought me some room.
Attachment 39592
Bad news, the blower belt is too long. I have about 3" of slack, time to do some math and call Bob.
Attachment 39593
I also spent a bunch of time wrestling with the plastic Procharger inlet and finally got the damn thing to slide on. Ordered some more couplers to mount up the ole 4" Spectre filter and stock MAF down in the bumper.
i will dig in the next few days for the procharger belt chart for an fbody. i have it somewhere.
i told you that inlet sucked
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This?Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
https://shop.brutespeed.com/media/LT...t%20Matrix.jpg
The sent me the 43", but there's about 3.25" of slack at the most and 2" at the least. I'm guessing I need one that's 1-2" shorter depending on stretch or the fudge factor of measuring.
Found a friend of a friend who does TIG welding and had him weld up my IAT and BOV port. I also had him convert a pair of fuel rails to parallel (for the future) bc setup costs are expensive and it made sense to do all welding in one shot. Check it out:
Attachment 39605
All of the IC piping is installed, just waiting on a new coupler for the TB elbow.
Attachment 39604
Waiting on a bunch of parts to come in which is holding me up at the moment. Installed SFC's and did a bunch of misc stuff in the meantime.
What's left to do off the top of my head:
* = missing parts
Blower
-Install shorter belt *
-Run BOV vac line
-Finish making inlet to filter piping, support bracket *
-Run boost gauge line to interior
-Add hose clamps to all little vac lines
Engine
-Replace spark plugs *
-Install upper rad hose *
-Fill w/coolant
PCV
-Make lines for catch can
Brakes
-Flare lines up front *
-Fab lines from T-block to calipers on rear *
-Bleed
Exhaust
-Mount up true duals and bend as needed near collector area
Trans
-Remove tailshaft housing and replace tailshaft bushing, reinstall
-Fluid
Diff
-Torque suspension bolts
-Fluid
Fuel
-Mount inline 255 and plumb between tank and filter *
-Wire up 255 FP relay *
-Install Deka 80's into stock rails (I guess file/saw open grooves to use with stock clips?)
Tune
-Draft initial 2bar speed density tune
No meth bung?
No meth for this thing. Opted to run E85 with the 24x setup in the future, but the timing will be soft and AFR rich on 93.Quote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy