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i see the sensor, but do not see where it ventures off to. ill investigate shortlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
can you check the manual and see if you can tell which actuator the one on the right side, right above the blower is for? is it recirc/fresh air? thats the one i broke the mounting tab off for, if its recirc/fresh ill lock it to fresh air position
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See if this helps. It’s from the manual but Rob/Shoebox colored it - part #35:
http://shbox.com/1/hvac_vacuum.jpg
Appears to control outside air vs. inside air recirculating.
Don't put a lot of time into the sensor/module.
i found the sensor, thats about the extent of it. broke the rest of the underhood side of the box out. some trimming and when the block off plate shows up will go back together. also have to:Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Retorque intake bolts
check lash hot
install summit ewp
install radiator/fans
be the zip tie master
thank you fred, that helps, that actuator can stay removed and plugged then.
I got a 200 dollar wrecked 02 blazer from a guy at work, under 80k miles, some body rust at rockers. been playing with that a little since its warm and its outside. hoping to fix/flip for some cash towards the birdAttachment 40384
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I was thinking it wouldn't be too hard to modify a temp sensor circuit to make a buzzer go off at a preset temp. An arrangement similar to this with the values changed: https://www.circuits-diy.com/tempera...ng-thermistor/Quote:
Originally Posted by harner
I had to wear a drywall mask when cutting the lower half of that box from all the fiberglass floating around lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
Are you pulling the whole heater box and dash out to install the plate, or are you trying to throw it on from the engine bay side? Those plates are made to be installed from the inside, but I was able to seal mine up from the outside with some lag bolts/spacers/nuts and a gasket made from EPDM weather stripping.
doing it from engine side. i heard the bmr plate just needs a little trimming/notch for the heater hose to go on from the engine side. i didnt want to risk cracking the dash padQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
what plate did you use?? did u notch the heater box to retain heat?
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I used a $30 plate from eBay made by LRE fab shop. I did retain heat by cutting out the heater box section by the blower motor and epoxying some thin sheetmetal in there, although I don't have any pics of the inside before I sealed it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
I believe the mounting flange is spot welded to the firewall and the raised lips aren't super flat or smooth. I tried to grind them reasonably flat and even and used some stainless lag screws and 1/4-20 nuts from McMaster to space the plate out a little. This was to keep all the mounting holes at the same height (didn't want to bend the plate when tightening it down). I used nylon nuts on the protruding lag screws that come from the interior to keep the plate secured, you can see one on the bottom left in the last pic.
Also, you have to make a gasket for where the heater core lines come out. I made a bunch of gaskets out of closed cell foam and stacked them behind the plate.
Attachment 40385
Attachment 40386
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i haz grinder. nhra rules say 0.025 thick steel is acceptable. guess what we have here. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4ae624b1ad.jpg
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ill just throw my ignition box on it so it covers the ghettohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...259251056b.jpg
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I mean, it works. But, esh
.................it works............... [emoji854] the tech screws are just future, as in tomorrow, bolt locations. and ill trim that top left side so it satisfies your ocd..... lol ive seen your throttle cable sirQuote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
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yes, a few tech screws stayed in, couldnt get to the backside under the dash in those spots. also relocated the trans dipstick from the valvecover to the block off plate. ill eventaully reroute the starter/o2/ground harness from the dipstick tube to under/behind the heater hoseshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...11213ed54e.jpg
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@Injuneer the alternator seems to have fallen down where the ac once washttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...220976134c.jpg
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Works for me. I've seen the modified stock accessory bracket cut down before. Better than the “relocation bracket” that went for about $79 and was no more than a flat piece of steel. Oooops, I see pcmofnc sells it for $120 + $27 for the belt ! ! !
https://www.pcmofnc.com/product/lt1-...et-hardware-3/
only problem is i lost the friggin belt ugh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
590K6 seems a little long still, i think i need a 578K6 (2016 camaro ss factory belt) but they are like OUT OF STOCK everywhere ughhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...07cbbd9003.jpg
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hawks sells the ict white label version which literally looks identical to the old speed inc billet one, but im not dropping 369 for itQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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2016 camaro ss lt1 belt fits IF you have the medium sized alternator pulley. i pulled the alt pulley off the delco alt and its in between diameters of the two other alts here. the one that was on the car was the larger pulley (3.055") vs 2.788" vs 2.575")
all the same alt, one carquest reman, 1 delco reman, 1 original? alt on car.
with the larger pulley i felt it was wayyy too tight, the tensioner was almost maxxed out open. with the 590 belt it was too loose (tensioner almost all the way up, slack) with swapping to the middle alt pulley size, the tensioner is 2/3 to cranked with new belt, like i can actually get it on without unbolting the idler pulley then blasting that with the impact to get it on. love how belta skip sizes too.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c843629988.jpg
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To bring up ewp stuff again.
If you swap to a BMW cwa400 pump, block the bypass and run no thermostat...the pump will generate 8psi on a cold system.
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My alternator had an "overdrive" pulley on it.Quote:
i pulled the alt pulley off the delco alt and its in between diameters of the two other alts here. the one that was on the car was the larger pulley (3.055") vs 2.788" vs 2.575")
well that would explain that LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
no more action yet. the main sewer line for my house broke where it goes thru the wall, so last night was spent vacuuming up water in the basement, and today will be spent calling out of work to play plumber
Ugh, Sounds like a shitty situation. Must be going around, I just had to repair my sewer lift pump last week.
shitty is an understatement.....Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
oh black water!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0e9b2d7e9e.jpg
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that sucked
back to car things soonhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3781ccb3c5.jpg
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@shownomercy thanks for hooking me up with the meizure pump
back at it tomorrowhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d73aadc7bb.jpg
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inhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f2e5f2a21a.jpg
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Glad someone was able to make use of it
thanks man! one thing, with the griffin rad, and the fan shroud cut as far as i can (even spacing the blade 1/2" in) the rad cover bolt holes dont line up due to how thick the rad is. had to cut the ribs off the top to get the airbox onQuote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
oil and antifreeze in, just have to button up the under dash wiring, check the air pump relay output functions right, and then start it uphttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c0ee93c5fc.jpg
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@Injuneer did you have the trans cooler fan wired to the air pump relay?
No. Had it's own relay near the nitrous solenoids, and the relay was switched with the rocker switch right above the nitrous relays on the rad support bar.
Sec St. had the fan relay wired direct to ignition switched power (“RUN”), and the fan would run constantly when I turned the ignition switch to “RUN” in the pits to access the MoTeC, to check something in the tune or pull the data log for the previous pass. The logging memory would only hold ~15 minutes of data, then overwrite, so I added the switch to avoid killing the battery. I should have included a pilot light on the dash, but never got around to doing it.
there was a keyed on red +12v wire that came from the fuse block and went to it. i see the air pump relay and fuse are still in the box hence why i asked. i had removed that relayQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
tear apart fuse block time
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I guess you already know it, but the air pump circuit as stock only runs the pump during engine warm up to help light off the cats.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
If you're gonna use it for your electric water pump, you'll have to revise the control circuit.
Nolan
When Sec St. got done with the car the AIR (and all other emissions) systems were physically intact. I guess they thought I wanted to be sure it would pass an NJ visual inspection. I wasn’t big on going to inspections, so I removed all that several years later.
But the relay is still in the underhood box. The load side (red wire pin 30) is powered at all times, protected by a fusible link. The fuse (#7) protects the signal side, brown wire pin 86.
already did, found my screenshot of a 2006 post on ls1tech that i screenshotted in 2012 lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
ewp works fine. thanks again @shownomercy
Have a MASSIVE split blm issue at idle. granted with the cam its to kind of be expected. but even with tb drill mod (to 0.250" [emoji102]) that helped and i was able to get the car to idle without throwing a high map voltage code, and get the iac counts somewhat normal, driverside bank pegs 160 and the wideband confirms it (its on that side) cylinder 7 is only 310 degrees while the rest are 500ish at idle
Injectors?
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yeah i revised pin 85-86 to ground/key on respectively and pin 30 to the air pump fuse, pin 87 feeds water pump. works [emoji123]Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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Did you replace the O2 sensors? I only ask because the sensors that were in the car were only there to plug up the sensor bungs. They were still connected to the stock PCM serving no purpose, but I could read them with my Scanmaster as I drove. It was interesting because leaded fuel (C16 = 6 grams/gallon) can kill them quickly. But one side didn’t seem to be affected much at all, but the other side started reading very low.
yes they were new as of when i went obd1. we are way past that lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
bank 1 AND my wideband show the lean condition, they are both within 3 inches of each other.
revving its fine, its only at idle. maybe a valve is too tight
just odd that it idled fine before putting the cooling system back in. although i didnt datalog it. ill dig into it next weekend. i worked on 3 vehicles this weekend lol. been nonstop every day
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https://youtu.be/g8h2qM2AJ-s
burn your eyes rich
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i know the cam is rather large, but i am seeing map values around 65-72kpa at 950ish rpm idle. with the 109+4 advance lsa and 253/261 duration is that normal?
Sounds about right with that big ass cam, actually seems like decent vacuum considering the size of the cam. Converts to ~ 8.1-10.6 inches vacuum on a gauge using 300 ft as your elevation. (I used rounded off numbers off a chart.)Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat