4L80E weighs 65# more than a 4L60E

Rotating weight is the reason most drag cars run Powerglides. A Powerglide is junk in stock form, though. We used to do alot of Metric 200s and TH350s for Super Stock cars where engine modifications are limited. This means you have to find as much power as you can in other areas. The TH350s we're built with 2 of the 4 pinions removed from the planetaries, lightweight shafts, lightweight sun shells, etc. Ever see a TH400 with aluminum planetaries? Aluminum drums? Little tricks we've done to reduce internal weight and parastitic drag.

Frank

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Originally Posted by Cahall

Look, everyone already knows that you'll find some fault or excuse for whatever tests are done. We're putting 3 different transmissions in a mid 10 second car with the same stall converters. You want direct comparisons, that's what we're doing. Stop whining.

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I am not whining at all.

Merely saying its not much of a test of trans strength. My friend had a faster/quicker LS1 car with a bone stock 60e that had a shift kit. Lasted two seasons before motor lost a cylinder, trans still working. So, you are not really testing your 60e that hard is all I am saying.

I would rather see a heavy +3500lb car trapping +135mph as a test subject. But, I applaud the effort to get some baseline numbers. Now, will these all be MVB trans builds? And will the 80e have a T-brake?

Why would anyone want a manual valve body 4L60E? The concept makes no sense at all...In any realm of a distant imagination. You really should try hanging around racing a little more. A manual valve body only made sense when you were relying on a vacuum modulator and governor to control pressure and shift points. Then, when you wanted consistency, you put an air shifter in the car that is controlled by RPMs. The 4L60E already uses a computer for shift points that is more accurate and consistent than any manual valve body is going to be. Here's an in car camera of a 10.2 run in a 4200 LB Impala SS with one of our 4L60Es in it... 10.2 with both hands on the wheel! http://youtu.be/aaE3zBhUMpM.

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Originally Posted by shownomercy

Merely saying its not much of a test of trans strength. My friend had a faster/quicker LS1 car with a bone stock 60e that had a shift kit. Lasted two seasons before motor lost a cylinder, trans still working. So, you are not really testing your 60e that hard is all I am saying.

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Now, it appears as though you need this explained to you AGAIN. This test isn't to find the max capabilities of the 4L60E. We're still looking for those. However, we know we can build them to stay alive in 9 second, 4200# cars, trapping 139 MPH. "Been there, did that, have the tee shirt". Now, follow along here... This test is to compare the ET differences between a 4L80E and a 4L60E... Not how much a 4L60E can handle.

Why not stick it in a heavier, more powerful car? It'd show a larger difference I'd think.

Quick question. .

Have a buddies full weight ta. 3750 pound set up. Been 11.19 @ 120 on motor . It's a 383 pump gas Stroker with an 80e , 4500 stall from pro torque I'm pretty sure (might be a ptc) and a Moser 12 bolt. ..

He's really wanting to get the car into the 10.90s na and was wondering if it would be worth him doing the 60e swap?

No he doesn't want to spray it and no weight reduction (it's bone stock suspension)... yeah he's stubborn as shit..

Any suggestions on the trans converter. Will it really ditch 2 tenths or more?

Yes, a 60E will make the car quicker. That looks to be alot of stall too. How much duration on the cam?

Frank

If he doesn't change anything else on the car and it doesn't run 10.9 with a 4L60E, I'll buy it back.

Frank

Cams a 250/ 256. 6900 rpm shift

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Originally Posted by Cahall

If he doesn't change anything else on the car and it doesn't run 10.9 with a 4L60E, I'll buy it back.

Frank

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Damn, that's some confidence right there :).

I'm sure the 60e is faster as well, and a better choice for a lot of street cars...but for 600+ HP I think the 80e is a safer bet. Not just for going down the strip, but for the reliability years later.