ohhh spicy twisty parts
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ohhh spicy twisty parts
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I decided to demo my new suspension on a new track... yea, not the smartest idea but it didn't disappoint. Definitely feels way tighter than before which makes it easier to place on corner entry and handle high speed transitions (see: downhill section mid track). Exit also feels a little more tidy and there's way less squat/floppyness. I want to put the BMR springs back in the rear though. I think UMI's 200lb/in rate is too much with the stock roll center height as it makes the car too intolerant of trailbraking.
This track is absolutely bonkers though. Definitely going back next year. Check out the air I get around 4:10 lmao.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU_8KAGkNvs
https://i.imgur.com/bqzO7de.jpeg
Looks like a cool track. Thanks for sharing the onboard video, it's fun to watch, but the brake squealing drives me nuts. LOL
Hahaha I also swapped the front pads to Raybestos ST43's right before the event. I thought the Powerstops were annoying, but these take it to a whole new level. The brakes feel fantastic though and have way more bite than before. Still getting used to them.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Last event of the season, this time with Porsche Club. Got to chase a bunch of 911's around and they were pretty impressed lol.
https://youtu.be/mJaGpicZvPk
I was having issues with the car breaking up all day so I couldn't use all of the power. Could be the opti, fuel pump, injector, etc. I think the motor is hurt though as it blew part of the valvecover gasket out during the last session.
This is ironic because I've been planning a H/C setup out for this car the past couple weeks. Plan was to build a 355 with studded mains, better rods, lighter pistons, small-med sized cam, and my Roadmaster's LE1 heads. High 300's whp should put me between a SS1LE and GT350.
Looking good, sounding bad. Check for a corroded coil wire terminal. Don't laugh, I've had two different LT1's with a on and off miss and the coil wire was the culprit on both.
But then again, a fresh engine would be sweet and you can go Watermelon Boy Fast. LOL
Nolan
I played with all the wires at the track without any luck. Replugged most of the opti wires, coil, coil pigtail, inj clips, opti harness, etc. Wish it was that easy, but I'm not really bummed because this means I'll get to flex on newer cars next year with all that extra hp lmao.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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I wasn't sure if you followed Nascar. This is what I meant by Watermelon Boy Fast. Watch Chastain. He stuck it in fifth gear and stood on the gas. LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mn6S0TVYon4
That is nuts, hilarious and incredible all at the same time lol. He was going SO much faster than everyone else. Commentators called it perfect, "video game move"Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Lol he used my Gran Turismo 4 cheat. I used to tape the PS2 controller so the car would ride the wall during an endurance race on Super Speedway, come back 2hr later and collect my prize car.
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So I ended up pulling the valvecover on the side where the gasket blew out and found that one of my pushrods was MIA... Must've fell into the intake valley somewhere. Anyway, the stock cam is probably all dinged up from smacking the unconstrained lifter the whole drive home and there's way more blowby than before (maybe from a hole in the piston? lol), so I'm officially retiring the stock motor.
In prep for a budget 355, I grabbed some 5.7" Eagle H-beams from @Ltconvert with the 7/16" ARP 8740 bolts. Also got a stock crank and 2-bolt block from @SSlowBoat. Original plan was to have the stock mains studded, but I found a cheap 4-bolt block on marketplace and am going to use that instead.
I took advantage of those black friday sales and have some parts coming in the mail:
- Wiseco ProTru PTS503A3 forged pistons, 4032 alloy, -5cc flat tops
- Lunati 20080543 cam with the laziest lobes possible, 219/227 duration, .534/.544" with my 1.7's, 110LSA +4adv, should be fine with my Crane duals
- Morel 7717 lifters (the Summit branded ones), basically LS7s but hopefully not as shitty
- Cloyes true roller 9-3651X3 timing set similar to the ole LT4 HD one
- Spec 12lb aluminum flywheel so I don't shatter the 10 bolt with brake hop lol
- Yukon Duragrip posi because my Auburn is dying and I'm too cheap for a Truetrac
Last two things I need are a Super Damper (the big 7" aluminum one) and a windage tray, but I'll get to that.
Cam is on backorder unfortunately. There was a cam shortage for a while, so who knows when Lunati will get to grinding the damn thing. I'm probably going to throw the Roadmaster's LE1 motor in the car as-is though as I already signed up for an event at Thunderbolt 3/11 and dunno if I'll have time to cobble the shortblock together before then.
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i have a windage tray and a road race oil pan too lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
also have the baby 230/242 114lsa cam for sale as well, you could run it with a hydraulic lifter
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I'm just gonna reuse the Kevko pan that's on there now.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
I decided against a bigger cam for the sake of longevity and also so the budget wouldn't balloon out of control. Definitely overbuilding it because this thing will be doing WOT for 2hr per track day.
Some goodies showed up. Interesting how you can see the needle bearings on one side of the Morel roller.
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Dam I like shiny parts. Bulletproof piston and rod combo you got there. The valve reliefs seem big enough to make it a D-Dish piston. Must be an optical illusion at only 5cc.
Should have plenty piston to valve clearance.
You gonna be da boss running on all 8 considering that you were doing pretty good on 7. LOL
Nolan
Curious how those lifters work out for you, but also excited to see how the new setup performs!
Excited to see how this turns out. What RPM do you think you'll be able to spin it to safely?
It'll probably go to 6.2-6.3k no problem. I think the valvetrain will be the real limiting factor.Quote:
Originally Posted by rentedmule
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Also, I bought a tow rig + new daily. I have a problem lol.Attachment 40375
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That's a damned nice ride, me likey. Is it an LT1 Cad ? Years ago I was visiting with friends over the holidays, his Aunt was there in this beautiful black Cadillac, come to find out it was an LT1. I was so in love with it that I almost had her talked into selling it to me, but she said no way because you can't buy one like this anymore.
Nolan
Yeah, it's a 94 LT1 Brougham. Probably the last real land yacht GM made.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
Even though I wanted a fullsize SUV or pickup, the Caddy was just too nice to pass up and in way better shape than all the other things I looked at.
Our boats should have a burnout contest haha
Currently dumping the roadie's LE1 motor in the bird, I'll get to the 355 later. Only thing I'm doing is swapping oil pans and taking out the 1.7 Scorpions in favor of 1.6 Promags.
Lazy cam showed up sooner than expected though. I guess I should probably drop the block off for boring and the rotating assy for balancing. This will be a slow project assuming the LE1 motor doesn't pop immediately.
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Attachment 40381
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Nearly ready to slide this jawn back under the car. A few concerns:
1. There isn't enough clearance for the dipstick tube on the Kevko pan. I actually ovalled the dipstick tube on the old motor from cranking the pan down on it which made it a huge pain in the ass to pull out of the block. I didn't want to chop the tube level with the block because then the only thing stopping the dipstick from getting smacked by the crank throws would be the big windage tray hole. I ordered a plug for the factory dipstick hole and some sort of universal dipstick to put into the fill port at the top of the driver side kickout. Looks cramped as hell down there because that's where my oil temp sensor and cooler lines are, but I don't have a choice.
2. I am debating leaving the 1.7 rockers on this motor and just dropping the redline down from 6150 to the stock 5800 or whatever, hopefully avoiding valve float in the future. The 1.7s put the lift at 0.568" int and 0.581" exh which is already approaching the limit of the Crane 10308-1 kit. The stainless valves are also 5g heavier than stock and the Crane retainers are allegedly heavy, but I have no data for them. I know a titanium retainer will probably save at least 15g, but they're $260 and my wallet has already taken a beating this season lol.
Also, check out the baller aluminum flywheel from Spec.
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Also, I couldn't resist and had to put wheels on the boat
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Needs more low lol
I'm not sure if you could fit something like this in a kickout area and or if the full oil pan would be past kickout level.
Basically set the level you want and cut the tube, then fill till it drips out from plug below pan.
Looking forward to hearing your feedback on the aluminum flywheel. I've been considering one but have never had the opportunity to drive one and can't decide if it would be better or worse for auto-X.
That's interesting, but I definitely would need to fill above the top of the kickout. The Kevko tech told me the proper fill level was to the top of the kickout (fill plug), but I found the car would starve on long sweepers. I dumped another 1.5+ qts in and filled to the factory dipstick instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by shownomercy
My guess is that it's going to be crappy for launches, but will make shifting and heel-toeing much smoother. I'm hoping it shocks the diff less and makes brake hop less likely.Quote:
Originally Posted by rentedmule
Still have a lot of work to do, but it's in.
I kept the 1.7 rockers and just added another 0.030" shim to the Crane duals. Installed height ended up being 1.830" with a seat pressure of 137lb. I was too lazy to pull the valve stem seals, so I got some Comp shims that were close and bored the ID out slightly so they'd slip right over the ID locators.
Also, I bought a flexible Kevko dipstick and it fits like crap, but it functions. It gets a little bound up at the pan fitting so you have to rotate and jiggle it, but it works.
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Got it together and drove it around a bit. I can already tell the dying Auburn posi won't last much longer lol.
First impression of the aluminum flywheel is that the car is a little harder to get going from a stop and the revs can dip pretty quick, but it's not that noticeable. I'm sure the little Comp cam takes away some low end too. The car is very easy to drive overall though and the throttle response is snappier than what I'm used to.
Was the flywheel worth the money? Idk lol, we'll see how it feels on the track in 2 months.
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Congrats on getting it back track ready. Also thanks for the review on how the aluminum feels. It's something I've considered, but now I think I'll stay with a heavy wheel.
Nolan
Swapped in a cheapie Yukon Duragrip posi and Proform girdle cover. Ideally I'd be using a Truetrac and a nice cover, but I don't want to put too much $ into the 10 bolt. Hey, it's better than nothing.
Hopefully it hooks up better on corner exit.
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very nice
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Seemed like there was a lot of interest in my hub adapters in a FB f-body autox/RR group, so I decided to make a batch. Trying to help the community out so more cheapasses like me can zoom around their local road course.
Attachment 40420
how much for a pair? id rather have better wheel bearings on both mine and @Ltconvert carQuote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
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They're gonna be around 400ish or a little more for the pair with hardware. No provision for ABS and the track width gets widened 1/4" per side. You don't really need them unless you plan on putting 200tw tires on the front and hitting the twisties.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
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Attachment 40428
I haven't posted in a while because not much has happened. Went to a season opener DE at NJMP on 3/11, but it rained the whole time. This car is a DEATHTRAP in the wet lmao, no ABS or traction control had me white-knuckle driving the whole time with no traction through 3rd gear. More power and a tighter posi definitely weren't helping me here.
Apparently it dried out later in the day, but I got kicked out of staging for leaking oil before my 4th session (there were 8 total that day). Typical LT1 behavior I guess, although it only puts down 1 drop every 2 mins. The wet ground would turn a tiny drop into a big rainbow spot which is the only way they caught me. They also singled out a dude with a Porsche 944 and booted him too.
I did notice the leak before the event and thought it was coming from the crank seal area but couldn't really tell. I didn't remember my Roadmaster's motor leaking like that, so my guess was that the F-body hub I transferred over was too worn as it was a little grooved where the seal rides. I shotgunned a billet hub onto the car a few days earlier and it seemed to stop leaking, idk. I guess my problem is probably higher up on the timing cover.
On the stubborn leaky seals I use a Speedi-Sleeve on the hub. That along with the new seal has always done the trick tightening up the seal just slightly. Another trick I picked up on many years ago is to lightly sand the hub seal surface with about a 220 grit. The roughing of the surface gives the seal a little "tooth" to break in on. Super slick surface and a new seal will usually leak. You probably already knew this but I threw it out there anyway.
Nolan
Bought some Canton valvecovers off a friend for cheap because the stockies were seeping a little. I believe the poly locks of my Scorpion 1.7s were making contact and preventing a good seal. The fit of the Cantons is awful and they have 0 internal bracing/baffling, but I don't see any leaks.
I also rigged up the old ebay catch can from my Camaro that's stuffed with scotch brite. Maybe it'll catch something? Idk, but I think one of those Provent 200 knockoffs is in my future.
Going to Pocono Thursday. Hopefully I can hang with most of the newer cars on the straights now.Attachment 40436
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