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I'll have a good idea on Tuesday probably. Monday I'm going to support the motor and pull the front right mount so I can forcibly remove the crank pin plug. That way I can properly pin the crank and go from there. By all reasoning, now I see that the left aide was indeed the one in time still, so I know the crank is probably 1/4 turn retarded at this point. Can still hope right?Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysz2893
Goodluck.
Suck. Rain yesterday and today. Ain't nobody got time fo dat! But I'm not laying on wet gravel and yard to do this either. The car is hanging on a single jackstand ready to have the motor supported from underneath and for me to go to town, but this WX just isn't cooperating. Got to wait until Friday now, at the earliest.
It's raining here now.
Attachment 30321Quote:
Originally Posted by SUBARU POWER TIME
LMFAO
I guess I haven't been around these parts in awhile, haha. Sweet pick up at that price. Let me know if you need anything as far as Audi parts go, I'm pretty well connected.
PS: I don't have Facebook any more but I'm pretty sure you still have my email and phone number :cool:
Inside joke:
Attachment 30322
@SUBARU POWER TIME
Pretty much.
Back in the saddle. Time to get this figured out.
First order of business, get the front right motor mount out so we can get the stripped crank lock plug out.
Have to drop the sway bar, not remove. Four 13mm bolts with my impact driver and they were right out.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pseed45194.jpg
Found it interesting how the motor mount has the sway mount integrated with it.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps2776a4fa.jpg
Now, there are TWO spots I could see that needed support. The first was the motor obviously. A piece of wood and a jack under the pan with just a bit of tension was fine. The second spot, which I'm not positive if it was needed, was under the cradle on the right (in the picture you can see the jack). You're removing the long bolt that goes through both the mount AND the front cradle mount, so better safe than sorry.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps98c0ebd2.jpg
18mm sockets on all three bolts and a.....16mm I believe on the mount stud itself, and it's out. I took the LONG bolt that went through the mount and cradle and ran it all the way back in as an extra safety measure, though it's not pictured below.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps04b6fa3d.jpg
Four 8mm allen head bolts later (a LONG allen head socket and short extension and I broke all but the upper rear loose with ease, the upper rear required a short regular sized allen socket and 3" extension to get to due to the cradle interference) and I've got unrestricted access to the bane of this issue.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps89a68b59.jpg
Most of that fresh oil is from removing the rear cam covers. It just dumped down.
So.....after some fiddling and frustrations, thinking that this thing was WAY out of time, I realized I was pre-positioning the lock pin too far in. I backed it out some and the crank swung far enough forward and I was able to work the crank forward with one hand while keeping a slight drag on the counterweight with the lock pin until I felt it free up and start screwing in again. As stated in the manuals, some slight back and forth wiggling of the crank while screwing the lock pin in ensures it goes in ALL the way. Once it's fully in, the crank will not move at all.
As Jesse would say if any of you are Breaking Bad fans....."Yeah B*tch!"
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps139c74dc.jpg
On to the cam tensioners now.