Code 18 crank or trigger open?
At home on the sofa watching the game.
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Code 18 crank or trigger open?
At home on the sofa watching the game.
no, code 18 on a lt1 is injector circuit. something wrong with either an injector, the wiring, or ecm driver for injectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormyweather
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Crap might be your switch then.
At home on the sofa watching the game.
well, just started working on it again. even though injector 8 ohm good, it seems to be dead. plugged a spare injector into #8 harness plug, cleared code, started car, no more code
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GM spec for minimum injector resistance is 11.6 ohms. Per the factory manual description for DTC 18.
Glad you found it. I was going to respond to your original question. I have seen people get incorrect results with attempts to improvise a 'noid light from an incandescent bulb. Also was going to ask if there was any possibility that you had a leaking coil with the new ignition setup. Could be interfering with the injector wiring, inducing enough current to provide a ground. But that's no longer an issue.
yeah the problem seems to have gone away at this time. that coil in the back will get swapped when my 4 replacement used ones arrive. I also spoke to BP automotive about a new engine harness, I think the age and brittleness of this 27 year old harness are starting to show.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
it was whacky too, because I replaced injector, cleared code started car and code returned. I almost set the car on fire at that point. unplugged it and plugged it back in a few times and it went away for now.
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Running a solid roller lifter cam, I found it easier to keep the coils off the valve covers, out of sight. And no, no problems with them getting wet in this location.
my power steering and alternator are so loud https://youtu.be/tus86ppK_Jg
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So cars running better now?
... on my tablet using Taptalk
somewhat. haven't really driven it. that injector wiring issue aggravated me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormyweather
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