http://shbox.com/1/evap_system.jpg
Note where the T has to be installed to make the control valve function as both a negative and positive pressure relief valve.
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http://shbox.com/1/evap_system.jpg
Note where the T has to be installed to make the control valve function as both a negative and positive pressure relief valve.
I think he ordered a replacement “fuel tank vent valve”……..”the white valve by the brake lines”
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_wiring.jpg
The “evaporative emission pressure control valve” is still in place. The hoses on top of the tank are still in place. There's a piece of cloth serving as a “sock” on the canister end of the hose. I was concerned about possible fuel smell, but the only place I really noticed it was at the track. The C16 smell went well with the location.
I still have the canister if you want to put it back in.
Why…. I just decided to pull a bunch of odds & ends to reduce weight. The car is way too heavy. Hell, I even deleted the sun visors.
im not worried about it. i will get it figured out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
heres a good one. i have been chasing a vibration and harmonic from the rear end/driveshaft for a while. i decided to verify pinion angle since i did lower the car.
here is where it gets tricky, many say just offset between crank centerline and pinion, some say driveshaft angle vs pinion, etc
rear was pointed up 3 degrees, and driveshaft was at 3 degrees, giving me a total ujoint angle of 6 degrees at rest. according to spicer, this is too much and will cause a vibration.
doing it 1 way, i have -1.7 degrees from front to rear on the crank centerline, so what should my pinion angle be? pinion nose up -0.3? or nose down 0.3? or nose up -3.7?
if i leave it set pinion nose down 0.3 degrees i get atleast a degree difference between the driveshaft angle and pinion angle, and spicer says there should be atleast 1 degree operating angle between the two
ahhhhhh ive never had it where the driveshaft runs UP to the pinion (facing from driver side).
"Hell, I even deleted the sun visors".
LOL, That explains it all.
if them and the evap were in i wouldve only gone 10.00 [emoji102] lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
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Engineers are micromanagers.......
I think there's still some speakers in one of the doors.....
Injuneery engineer what should my pinion angle be lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
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I'm trying to remember what Steve Spohn did when he installed the new torque arm. With the rubber bushing in the old arm front TA mount, he was looking for a -4-deg static pinion angle, because the arm would move upwards as the rubber compresses. With the new arm with front rod end, he said it should be reduced to -2-deg. The rubber in the front bushing compresses, the rod end doesn't. The pinion isn't allowed to move upward as much under load.
The idea it to have the centerline of the crank and the centerline of the pinion parallel under max load. This seems to clear it up a bit:
https://www.qa1.net/tech-center/tech...ngle-explained
that confuses me more, again stating it slopes down. even steve spohns site says driveshaft should slope down to rear. with the driveshaft sloping down, the rear pinion is at 4° nose down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Injuneer
for reference, before i touched it, the pinion was 3° pointing UP and the adjuster was almost as far together as it could go.
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this is from rossler trans, and this is what im gonna go by when i do it tonighthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a24318cec7.jpg
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