LT1 F1R Procharger wanting to up the power

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I was originally going to be using these fittings with the metal housing but changed my mind on it and not to mention was dealing with height issues as well.
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Picked up this 3 way manifold fitting along with the 3/8 barb fittings.
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If you look closely you can see a somewhat restriction of flow. So I got my Dremel and opened up all three ports.
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I couldn't find flexible fuel hose that was the 3/8 that I needed so I went ahead and used nylon hose. I found a place on ebay but was like $50 bucks for 1ft I think. Quite pricey for something simple.
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I used a brake flare tool to grab the line and then get the pump pushed in using a wooden block and a hammer. No heat or boiling water and gets the job done super quick and very air tight sealed.
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Bought a fuel sender unit on ebay, took it apart and used just the sender unit. (0-90ohm)
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The return hose will feed directly inside fuel bowl to pumps.
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I was going to run the 465 and 255 pumps but decided that I'll just run with both being 465 pumps instead just to be on the safe side.
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I used the factory fuel feed port and put my -6AN return line there.

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OK if you've been reading this far this is quite important concerning my situation. Sorry about the clarity but this is the pinout for the fuel pump that goes to the yellow bulkhead inside the tank. My issue is my pump stopped working out of knowhere. It took me awhile to track it down but come to find out the connector and plastic housing had gotten so hot it started melting the connector. Definitely do not want it failing during a wot pull or ever happening for that matter.
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I got the problem repaired but this time what I did is I used the factory bulkhead and tapped into Both fuel pumps wiring in hopes that it will help give more current flow to the pumps. It can't hurt. Honestly while testing the pumps outside they sounded stronger than ever. If this isn't enough fuel system then I'm leaving it alone lol.

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Here you can see the whole reason I rethought my pump system. I feel it should flow much better now by far.

The 21st of this month I'm taking it in to get it tuned with the E-85. I bought 160lb FIC injectors so it should be plenty to keep her feed. I am concerned about my clutch though. Never even crossed my mind until my tuner mentioned it to me. What is recommended. SNL tune my car so apprantly they have a clutch now for us old LT junkies?? Or the new LT?? Last time I asked they didn't have anything but found a link that claims it is.

Good work correcting the fuel pump issue. That would not have been fun.

As for the clutch, I'm running the McLeod street twin which is supposed to hold 1300 or 1500hp (can't remember and assuming crank hp). It's a great clutch with very good driveability.

That wiring is slightly scary IMO.

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Originally Posted by blackbirdws6

Good work correcting the fuel pump issue. That would not have been fun.

As for the clutch, I'm running the McLeod street twin which is supposed to hold 1300 or 1500hp (can't remember and assuming crank hp). It's a great clutch with very good driveability.

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yea, I have no idea how that had happened. It's something I'm going to keep in mind and check up on it after time rolls on.

I'm not feeling very confident on my clutch. I have a feeling it's going to slip during tuning.

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Originally Posted by shownomercy

That wiring is slightly scary IMO.

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it's just simple power and ground in a tight area.

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I bought one of these units so I can see some, on the go data on my android stereo. I haven't had a chance to try it fully, but so far it's pretty cool unit.

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I haven't really dug into it but does anyone have experience with utilizing e85 composition sensor on LS pcm?

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Since I'm using twin 465lph walbros, I had no choice but to cut and remove the bucket part of it. There was just no way to get it to work. Shoot, it barely fit to get inside the tank as is. I'm still brainstorming on what can be done to put a baffle in it. Aeromotive sells a kit that I may be trying out so we'll see how that goes. But for now it stays as is.
34 hours and then tune time.

Those pumps draw 14 amps at full load, seems very risky IMO to risk your fuel supply on little plastic rigs.

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Originally Posted by shownomercy

Those pumps draw 14 amps at full load, seems very risky IMO to risk your fuel supply on little plastic rigs.

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wires have solder and plastics are there for type of covering. They still have racetronix bulkhead connection and the factory bulkhead that taps into them.

Car put down 770 horse and 722 torque at 15psi. 100 degree temp and high humidity. Entire powerband picked up. I knew something was wrong because boost was exactly the same from the 4.5 to the 4 inch pulley. Boost graph showed it just flatlined in the upper rpms and power followed right with it and I knew that couldn't be right. Checked belt seemed little loose but not too bad. Didn't show any signs of it slipping.
It was a long day and wrapped things up and went home so I can figure things out. Surely enough did a boost leak test and, major air leaks. Coupler around throttle body was gushing out that was the worst area.
https://youtu.be/LRrWbs92qaY