Be sure to reference the depth of the current pilot bearing so you can install the new one at the same depth. It's one of those things that can be easy to forget.
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Be sure to reference the depth of the current pilot bearing so you can install the new one at the same depth. It's one of those things that can be easy to forget.
I would suspect it is stock bore size...
still haven't found an answer to bore size on the Tick MC so I will probably just swap in the McLeod MC and sell the Tick. so if anyone wants a low mile Tick adjustable MC it will be for sale soon lol
Where did you end up buying the twin disc from?
@96lt1355z28Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepy_z
okay, just wanted to update this thread. I finally bit the bullet and went ahead with installing the street twin. its taken a couple weeks as I really only had a couple hours here and there to work on it but hoping to have the car back on all fours this afternoon and start getting some miles on it. only issue I ran into is McLeod sent me the wrong length braided hose from the master to the slave. the one they sent me was 24" long which barely reached the slave and couldn't thread on. I talked to Josh and he determined that the correct hose is supposed to be 30" hand had one sent out to me free of charge. so the new line is in, just need to bleed and put the exhaust back on and she should be good to go. I will update with how it drives once I get some miles on it.
big thanks to Josh ( @96LT1355Z28 ) for helping me out especially since I ordered the kit over a year ago and getting the new line to me quickly so i can finish this up.
I took pics along the way but not sure how to upload them with the whole photobucket crap that is going on, I'll figure it out
Happy to help and glad your finally getting to work on it!
put almost 100 miles on the car today, just driving around running errands working on getting the clutch broken in. all is good so far, have a slight vibration at 70mph that wasn't there before but that could be unrelated. love the lightweight flywheel, throttle feels a little more snappy especially when rev-matching downshifts. I'm on vacation this week so goal is to drive it as much as possible to get miles on the clutch.
your sig says "383" so I assume you have a neutral, aka "internal", balanced motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by hokeplaya05
McLeod does show 2 Twin clutch kits. 1 for external and the other internal balanced motors. In reality they are the same kit just the FW does not come with the screw on weight....BUT it is the same FW as the external balanced kit....it has 4 taped/threaded holes that would hold on the weight PLUS 4 small bolts
on my steel FW this amounted to 25 grms....I suspect less on aluminum but still something....enough to possibly make a balance issue
Every high $ "neutral" FW I have bought I take to a machine shop to confirm "zero" balance. ALL were off
Given a clutch swap is not a 10 min job I found te $40 to confirm/balance the FW AND PP & floater to zero makes for a smooth motor after, IMHO
pics of my Twin steel FW and the small screws/washers I put in place = the 25 grams of missing material. Also IIRC SPEC sells a billet FW (for single disc clutch) for both neutral and rear balanced LT1 and in instructions it says "if motor is internal balance use 3 of the 4 screws that hold the weight on after removing the weight"
interesting, yeah my motor is internally balanced and the kit came with the weights. I almost installed the "chevy" weight but took a quick look at the build sheet for the long block and saw that it was internally balanced. I adjusted my pinon angle today and it got rid of most of the vibration, but there is definitely still a little vibration there. put another 100 miles on it today and all else seems good.