Printable View
Maybe I'll go low boost on stock motor and just build the spare block that I have the way I'll need it for bigger boost. Because I don't really want to skimp on stuff and then have to buy again later.
How much boost can a 150k mile LT1 hold safely anyways... i don't want it to go boom quite yet...
Did someone CALL 911? :devil:
If you want part info, I couldn't agree more with what Fastbird has already said.
It sounds like more than anything you are just trying to decide if you want to go in the hole and buy what is needed to make your power goals come true and be reliable, or if you'd rather go the cheep route and look for less unreliable power.
If you want advice or opinions mine will always be towards the side of building it right the first time by doing something you'll be happy with, and if you can't afford to do that now, just hold off all together until you can. Boosted projects ALWAYS end up over what you planned on spending. So if its going to break the bank on paper just figuring costs, then you're probably going to be hosed when it comes down to actually doing it and you run into the inevitable snag that will happen.
If you go cheep and unreliable, usually your power goals are not met, and whether they are or are not, it usually ends up as a catastrophic break when something does end up going, and then your going to be much worse off financially than you would be in your current position (but then you also have a busted down car you already spent time effort and money in to worry about as well). Even if you don't drive it much, un-reliable means it might make it 10,000 miles, or maybe not to its first oil change.
I think anytime you want to go boosted, you should build it to take MORE than the power you ever think about putting it through for reliability. I could have gone with Eagle rods, and they may have held, but why loose sleep at night worrying if when I put the hammer down that something might have gone wrong? I sleep peaceably in my bed at night knowing that even though I unleashed hell on my boosted LTX earlier that it just smiled back at me asking for more.
It's your shot to call man. But if it were me, I'd wait until I could do it right and have a bit extra to spend for the extra inevitables.
I'm trying to get some rough price list together here. What bearings would you guys suggest?
the quote i have gotten for a Forged short block 383ci was right around $3000, with
Forged callies compstar crank
Callies compstar rods
SRP pistons
4bolt caps and rings,
acl race bearings,
main studs,
block,
all machine work,
blueprinting and assembly.
but i may kick it up a bit since that was suggested for 10-12PSI
I was originally going with an N/A 396, but it'd be too wild and unreliable for my power goals. I decided to go 383 S/C. I'm in the same boat as some of you. Maybe I can tag along and get some good info.
not in the same boat as him....anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by QC97Z
Boosting is awesome... You can go all out and do the billet rods and the custom pistons but for 600 at the wheels no need. I have a friend making 2000+ on a twin turbo LS1 and he is using that stuff. It is certified to 6 seconds.
I have a 360 with a Vortech T-Trim pullied to the max. No cooler just methanol injection, LE2 heads, Scat 6 in H beams, Diamond forged pistons -16cc, and cola race crank. I got a MLS gasket because I called the company can't remember the name I will find it if you want said it they took it 44 psi before they blew the gasket. An o-ringed motor is unecessary for ~1000 hp application.
I made 420/400 at 3 1/2 psi. So I am stepping it up to as high as the T-Trim can do and am hoping for high 600's at the wheel at around 14-16 and I feel comfortable with it no problem. If it was 800-900 at the wheels I would be a little uncomfortable but not now.
Agreed, I love my boost....Quote:
Originally Posted by radcannon