Nice... get to work!
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Nice... get to work!
Waiting on parts. Just shipped today. Next week should be the fixing or the "oh shit I've got to pull the motor" moments.
Hope its the easy fix...Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
I think it will be. It had bad upper chain rattle cranking over.Quote:
Originally Posted by popo8
This isn't looking good. Let's just say that I'm uneasy with how things are looking at this point.
uh oh... what are you seeing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbird
Oh noes!!
Ok, so I went out today to lock everything in and get it ready for new tensioners. If you reference the first two pics with the valve covers off, you'll see the positioning of the cams was very similar.
Right Side:
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps1df37dc0.jpg
Left Side:
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psf615d456.jpg
Note the positioning of the flat spot with the threaded hole at the back of each cam. This is for the locking tool to lock them in at TDC. Both sets of cams were not too far past the locking point and all in sync.
I rotated the motor over by hand, and I could see the left side (drivers) jumping as I rotated the motor around by hand as the spring tension took slack from the chain. The drivers side chain tensioner was completely crunked. So I locked the driver side cams in place, popped off the phasers (and dropped a bolt down the back of the damn motor in the process, suck) and the tensioner, then went to the right side, where the cams were NOT in the lock position! They were PRE TDC position. At this point I knew it was off some. So I dropped a rod through the head and the piston for #1 was ALL the way up at TDC. I had to use the hold tool to hold the phasers on the right side so I could crack them free, remove the chain, put the phasers back on and snug enough that I could turn the cams to the lock position. They're all locked in now, and by what the rod is telling me the crank is at #1 TDC now too.
When cranking over by hand I did not run into any solid stops or hits at all. So either A, the motor didn't bend any valves, or B, they're already bent and nothing to hit. Thinking about how the pulley for the left side (the bad side) pulls on the timing chain (the tensioner is on the upper "push" side of the pulley), I'm hopeful that the right side stayed in time. But I can't find ANY explanation why the left side would be retarded about 1/5 of a turn like it was, there was no reason for it to be pulled back like that and it certainly wouldn't have kept both cams in phase with each other if it had jumped on that side.
So, I'm at a big point of "I don't know what's going on." Two courses of action really. Toss new tensioners in, put it together far enough to run a compression test, and see what happens. Or, go straight to the head/motor pull. I want to try to see where it's at, but I run the risk of ruining the tensioners while I'm at it. SO I don't know. Sadly there's not much DIY info on these out there, and I don't have access to a service manual which blows.
How hard is it to just skip to the pull the head off and see what you have, point?
Pretty in depth involved.