Dan's Money Pit NYTRDR

Get rid of the rattle box out back and weld an XR1 in the "I" pipe. Or whatever bullet style muffler you'd like. Then have a shop just make you the dual exit at the rear. Won't make it faster but it will sure sound a lot better. IMO flow master mufflers just aren't pleasant.


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And as far as DD lowering Strano springs will work well, bilsteins are a good choice. The drop isn't much but it's better than stock and arguably one of the better handling set ups. According to everyone and their mother my car is "slammed" . It used to have DD duties, no experience with LTs or a OR/Y but my cutout scrapes like all hell. In my defense the shop that mounted it (PO had it done) on a weird angle and it hangs lower that it should. Speed bumps are a pain. I went the "budget route" and picked up some Vogtland springs with KYB AGX for like $600 delivered. The deCrapons were shot and I hated the 4x4 look so at the time this fit my budget. And although it doesn't ride all that great she sure does look good. Just my .02


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Originally Posted by Dan

So, I'm going to get the mild steel short torque arm from midwest chassis for 375. Of course I'll be watching for a used one until March. Read a few horror stories of people cracking their tail shaft by downshifting on the highway lol. I'm nowhere near that kind of power but you know the opti, well the opti breaks everything!

It also allows me to kill two birds with one stone

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Short torque arms are for drag cars. Long are better for handling. You won't crack the tailshaft with a relocation crossmember. Whatever you do, don't buy kyb shocks. Strano will tell you why. I had slp bilsteins and they worked well with bmr lowering springs.

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I have AGX shocks on it now. They were already on the car. They probably got 20k miles or so. I think the backs are turds now.

With the torque arm, I don't do auto x or corner carving. What kind of handling loss are we talking about with a short torque arm?

Edit: Google was being nice. Looks like a full length is on my to buy list.

A short one will transfer your IC back, which means a harder hitting bite with less HP required. It also has a tendency to unload quick and potentially spin tires.

As always, if you have the time, read this one through, lots of tidbits
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=506618

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Originally Posted by shownomercy

A short one will transfer your IC back, which means a harder hitting bite with less HP required. It also has a tendency to unload quick and potentially spin tires.

As always, if you have the time, read this one through, lots of tidbits
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=506618

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Thanks man. I'll give it a read.

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Originally Posted by Dan

I have AGX shocks on it now. They were already on the car. They probably got 20k miles or so. I think the backs are turds now.

With the torque arm, I don't do auto x or corner carving. What kind of handling loss are we talking about with a short torque arm?

Edit: Google was being nice. Looks like a full length is on my to buy list.

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Kyb=keeps you bouncing, that's what Strano said to me lol

Short torque arm causes back end to unload quicker and harder during braking, which can cause rear traction loss. Long one doesn't prevent it, but improves it and makes it more manageable.

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Originally Posted by SSlowBoat

Kyb=keeps you bouncing, that's what Strano said to me lol

Short torque arm causes back end to unload quicker and harder during braking, which can cause rear traction loss. Long one doesn't prevent it, but improves it and makes it more manageable.

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I can vouch for that lmao. There are 8 settings for them. 1 is kyb, 8 is bone rattling. 2-7 are pointless.

I think the best option is to go with a long torque arm. I daily drive the car. As much as I want a mwc short arm with drive shaft loop, I think a long arm is the better option.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...689c21204b.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...772dc5e51c.jpg

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fUbeYLTryXk
Haven't gotten a vid of it with my new phone yet so I finally did

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Originally Posted by Dan

I can vouch for that lmao. There are 8 settings for them. 1 is kyb, 8 is bone rattling. 2-7 are pointless.

I think the best option is to go with a long torque arm. I daily drive the car. As much as I want a mwc short arm with drive shaft loop, I think a long arm is the better option.

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i don't think your hangs much lower than mine, i'll snap a pic of mine on lunch. in the pic in my sig i still had the LT so it just had shorty headers and a small shitty Y.