DIDnt we end texting with u sayim u had to go to school.
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at 720 am, but I was asleep till 7 amQuote:
Originally Posted by popo8:331355
Had a job offer come up today. Kinda torn really. Its in southern California at a solar power plant for 2 months. Pay is good but it basically means moving my family out there for the summer, not finishing my car, and possibly missing the shootout.
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I'm watching "how we invented the world" about skyscrapers on the science channel. Its amazing
Chanelle west coast is HOT
Just plug her mouth with something..... like a bratwurst or other pork product
I LOVE cookies. Hell id eat her Brownie
Here u go brotha.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6hn...e_gdata_player
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I already watched the live one :D
Delicious
I did quite a bit of work to the car today I'm hopes of finding the reason its backfiring. Tried different injectors, running without the supercharger, and I even took a half turn out of the rockers (I usually go a full turn past zero lash). No dice. I was going to pull the accel dfi out to try a stock ecm and harness but found some damage to several wires that I never noticed before. Damn mice. Im beginning to think my "known good" opti might not be good. I'm going to pick up another one tomorrow and try it. If that doesn't get it I'm sending the dfi to accel to be checked out.
Erratic. It starts and idles fine (although I can't get it to stay alive under 1000 rpms) until it warms up and goes into closed loop. When it gets to around 13:1 afr it starts popping in the exhaust. Seems like one cylinder every few seconds. As it gets warmer it gets louder. Im wondering if the cap might be cracked.
Timing stays constant when it goes into closed loop by the way.
Are the O2s functioning properly? Figured u must be monitoring them as well.
And Im not sure how aggressive ur cam is... But i cant idle under 1k once in closed loop.
I also idle lean to keep the plugs clean. Usually anywjere from 15-17 during idle.
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This system only uses one o2 sensor. I currently have my lm1 wideband (with new sensor) with the analog output feeding the dfi. I don't think its a very aggressive cam, 223/234 .575 lift. As much as I want to find out what's wrong with it I was relieved to see taking the supercharger off didn't make a difference.
I know I'm nowhere near the dollar amount or time involved as The SRZ is but I could only imagine how much worse it gets as time goes on.
You know it man.. the more complicated ...the more variables... the more confusing something simple could be. Is that set up required to run two o2s? for the computer to adjust itself. SOrry if questions are dumb... just trying to learn how your set up is.... and where it could be messing up... Obviously we never rule out the opti... however i would like to think something is happening when it switches LOOPS......
No it only requires one sensor. It also operates the injectors in batch fire, like the 93. I've got a few datalogs and I've watched for something to jump out at me. For the most part it seems good. After startup the iac brings down the idle to around 1200, ignition advance stays constant, it will sit at about 11-12:1 running fine then when closed loop starts it begins to auto adjust the AFR to dial in the actual to requested. After it leans it out to 13-14:1 it starts popping. Kind of lightly at first, ending with firey explosions. I have tried different plugs, wires, checked for header leaks, changed the bad msd opti, ran with stock injectors and throttle body. The only thing left is the opti or the dfi
All plugs looked identical. Soaked in fuel and carbon fouled. I started with auto lite 103 gapped at .040 then went to stock ac delco at .055 fouled it out and went back to the a103 cleaned up
Hmmmm ok.
So it def needs to be leaned out more when idling.....
And i guess right now it does not matter since ur not boosting ut... But thats a huge gap for boost. I gap .028-.030
But since ur experimenting...and not boosting right now....wamma try a hotter plug to see if it helps stay away from fouling longer.... And burns more of the fuel? ( shot in the dark really... But we need to get her to not soak plugs....
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What plug do you use?
Ill have to go thru my reciepts cause the afr 227s require short plugs . but 1 deg colder than factory
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One of these...cant remember if it is the "x" or not
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AFR is showing the basic Autolite 3910's for the 227's, not the X.
AR3932/31 are 1 and 2 steps colder but are the standard longer plug.
I guess I could go up to an autolite 104 gapped at .030. I think that's one step colder than factory.
But remember...cold will foul out faster. the whole benifit is for under boost.
Same with the tighter gap... So the boost does not "blow oit the wick"
I was actually thinking...gonone hotter (but dont boost) and work on ur fueling issue.
Is the monte still utilizing an ambient air temp semsor? are u able to scan the car while running and see if ambient air temp is close to reality... I BRIMG THAT UP cause... When we did my engine the first time.... We broke it and never noticed... Well no matter what we did with the tune...the car would over ride us and dump crazy fuel. we put the scan tool on it...and the car was telling us that it was 20 or negative 20 degres outside
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Yes it has a manifold temp sensor and an air temp sensor. They all work. I have ran stock ac delco tr45 or are you saying going hotter than stock?
They make 105's but i can only find them in iridium.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/frm-xp105
I've got 103's. That's what ben runs
I was only suggesting jt while ubtry tonget ur fueling issue figured out...because if u have to much fuel...colder plugs will only fowl faster.
Once ur issue is resolved and ur gonna tume it with boost...THEN go back to colder plugs
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