12 bolt rear adds a little, the GV overdrive unit and the roll cage all likely start adding up over a stocker. T-tops may be heavier than a hard top ?
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12 bolt rear adds a little, the GV overdrive unit and the roll cage all likely start adding up over a stocker. T-tops may be heavier than a hard top ?
Oops, that question was meant to ask 'what aspects are making it heavy?' Yeah I guess all of that stuff will do it lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSlowBoat
The drag guys have it better than me since mine is ultimately a street car and has to retain wipers, lights, front sway bar, bumper supports, big wheels/tires and brakes, giant gas tank, coolers, power steering, passenger seat for instructors, etc. I wish I had a place and real tow rig to turn my pile into a legit W2W rig like a CMC car but with a boatload more power lol. Some of those guys can get things down to 3k.
Almost done with this thing, just need to run to Home Depot and grab some thick weatherstrip for between the box and blockoff plate, thin weatherstrip between the plate and firewall, and epoxy to hold the sheet metal bypass in place.
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is it bad that im an hvac guy and i didnt make some really nice sheetmetal piece, i just cut it and used mastic tape for high pressure duct to form it lmao.Quote:
Originally Posted by Catmaigne
looks good man
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My daily broke last month which completely derailed all progress on this car, but all should be good now. First track event is 2mo away and I'm running out of time, so my plans have to change. Two things:
1. The weld-in cage from S&W isn't gonna happen and a bolt-in Autopower will go in instead. I know bolt-in cages are maligned because of the possibility of the main hoop punching through the floor, but the Autopower happens to bolt through several overlapping sheet metal sections that form the LCA bracket and connect it to the rear frame rail and pinch weld area. This ain't a w2w car so it's good enough.
2. I'm not gonna mod the Kevko pan and will instead be replacing it with a Champ CP80LTRB-RR pan that's in the mail. The techs at Champ were super responsive and sent me a basic diagram of the gating (5 trap doors and their directions + 4 partitions).
Beyond that, the other main things I gotta do before Watkins Glen are to rig up brake cooling ducts and fix this T56. 5th gear has been getting more grindy and the vibrations keep getting worse, so I'm going to address this before it explodes on track and costs me a ton of money in oil-dry.
5th's synchro slider, engagement teeth, and blocker ring all look pretty crappy so I will probably replace them all (or the slider/blocker at minimum). The tailshaft bushing is also pretty worn so I am going to try to cram the Rockland piece in there. The reverse synchro slider also desperately needs to be flipped because it looks like crap. I will be reshimming the input and both countershafts because this thing sounds like a box of rocks.
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This showed up sooner than expected. Looks like an improvement from the Kevko overall as it's deeper, wider, higher walls, and more doors. There are a couple gaps at the baffle edges I would like to fill though.
I am going to run the lower part of the built in tray and toss the louvered part because I don't think it'll clear the stock tray. I like the stock tray because it shields most of the sump above the pump pickup which is something pan trays can't do.
I will also need to make clearance for the PS rack, knock sensor, and factory dipstick.
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Nice pan. Them T56's are fun to take apart huh. Even more fun putting them back together LOL. If you haven't already done it, order a snap ring kit, you will thank yourself.
Yup, I got the small parts kit with all the snap rings. I was actually kinda surprised at how easy all of the extension housing stuff came apart, but removing the main case scares me because of the detent ball flying out and loctited shift guide bolts rounding. I got a complete set of nylon fork pads and am going to do the 5-6 + R forks, but I'm on the fence about replacing 1-2 and 3-4. Idk how much longer those stock nylon pads will last with me abusing it, although they are more robust than the extension housing ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOATMON
I also found that the vent tube barb was loose and leaking fluid so that's getting replaced too.
Realllllly really wish they made a T56 Magnum F for LT1 pull clutches :( The LS clutch conversion is a huge ripoff imo
I've done one T56 teardown, shifter re-location shift shaft modification and re-assemble. I documented it on my LT1 truck thread. I had a couple of issues ( got confused on re-assembly but figured it out). Transmission only had 20k miles and it was so clean I opted to leave the stock shift fork pads, etc.
My Camaro T56 is another story, it jumps out of reverse sometimes and it it so bang shift worn out it could stand an overhaul.
I'm gonna do a re-fresh on the Moser to get the whine out then maybe send the T56 to Tick for the full on. I'm thinking like you on the clutch conversion. Ain't worth it.
1000% on the Magnum T56. I paid Tick a crap ton of money to upgrade my T56. But, they were super helpful and extremely knowledgeable. And surprisingly enough the shipping back and forth was seamless.
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